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the balcony is a table with other furniture, for the accommodation of breakfast parties. We found here an excellent map of Mantua and its environs, which were now spread at our feet, and afforded a delightful view in the afternoon of a bright day. The Alps and the mountains of Verona are visible towards the north, and the Apennines to the south; but between them extend vast plains, on a dead level, and presenting an unbroken expanse of verdure. You look down upon every house in the city, which is five miles in circuit, and contains a population of little more than 20,000. It is completely insulated by the waters of the Mincio; though they flow on the western side through swamps of willow, so as to be invisible.

In ascending the tower, we saw the iron cage of the old Dukes, in which they used to confine their vanquished enemies for a show. The apartments of the palace contain a gallery of family portraits, and are furnished in handsome style, for the accommodation of the Viceroy, in his visits to the city.

The evening was passed at the new theatre, at the next door to our hotel. It is a pretty building, exhibiting four tiers of boxes, hung with rich tapestry, and brilliantly lighted, not only by chandeliers, but by circles of beauty. Above the stage is a rotatory clock, which gives the hour, and the subdivisions of every five minutes, in illuminated figures. It is an excellent idea, worthy of imitation in our own country. The play was a translation from the French, and afforded us little amusement.

Early next morning, we left Mantua for Cremona. A last and glorious view of the former city was obtained at sunrise, some miles beyond the gate. The road runs along the shore of the upper lake, which slumbers on a bed of osiers. We took breakfast at Piadena. From the windows of the hotel, we witnessed the process of making wine. The grapes are thrown into the body of a water-tight cart, furnished with a spout at one end, and placed at a suitable inclination. Two men and a female were treading out the juice with their bare feet and legs, and looked like Bacchuses, stained with the purple must.

At 5 P. M. we passed the stately Ionic Gate of Cremona, and took lodgings for the night, at the Royal Hotel, near the Cathedral, and in the centre of the city. In ten or fifteen minutes after our arrival, we were upon the top of the Cam

panile, an insulated tower rising to the giddy height of five hundred feet above the Piazza del Duomo. It is the loftiest work of the kind in Italy. The elevation of the different stages is marked upon the walls of the interior. It is built of brick, and possesses none of the beauty of the belfries at Florence and Pisa. The cupola affords an extensive prospect of all the great features of Lombardy-the Alps and Apennines in the distance, boundless plains spreading like the sea itself beyond the reach of vision, and the Po winding in broad and silver mazes, through fields of exuberant fertility. This noble river flows under the very walls of Cremona. Its current is here much wider as well as more sluggish than at Ferrara, and is studded with numerous small islands, which add nothing to its grandeur or beauty. Fleets of boats cover its surface.

Cremona is five or six miles in circumference, encircled by lofty walls, and containing a population of 23,000. The streets are wide, and diverge like radii from the centre, leading to the gates, beyond which straight avenues and vistas of poplar may be traced to the distance of ten or twelve miles. Numerous churches, palaces, hospitals, theatres, and convents heave their domes above brick walls, and render the battlements of the city stately and imposing.

A spacious boulevard extends from the Milanese to the Mantuan gate. It was now covered with temporary shops, and filled with goods, brought hither for sale at the annual Fair, which had drawn together all the neighbouring country. We called for a few minutes at an amphitheatre, where a strolling company of rope-dancers were amusing a large audience. One of the principal performers, announced by the clown, was 66 una certa Signorina Inglese," who exhibited her feats of agility to the admiration of the Italians. We made an early retreat, and went thence to the opera. The theatre is a lofty and beautiful building, with an Ionic portico in front, finished in good taste. A genteel audience, comprising all the beauty of Cremona and its environs, assembled at the Fair, imparted additional splendour to the five tiers of boxes, richly gilt and curtained with crimson. The music of the orchestra was exquisite; but the actresses were ugly, in comparison with many of their auditors, and displayed much affectation in their style of singing.

LETTER LXXXIX.

ROUTE TO LODI-BANKS OF THE ADDA--DESCRIPTION OF THE BRIDGE-ARRIVAL AT MILAN---ASPECT OF THE CITY--SKETCH OF THE CATHEDRAL--ARCHITECTURE-VIEW FROM THE CUPOLA--INTERIOR-TRADITION OF ST. AMBROSETOMB OF SAN CARLO BORROMEO-CELEBRATION OF THE JUBILEE PALACE OF THE VICEROY-REMINISCENCES OF NAPOLEON.

September-October, 1826.-At 8 o'clock on the morning of the 29th, we set out for Milan, a distance of fifty-two miles. A severe battle was fought near the gate of Cremona, by the French under Napoleon. The walls, composed of pale brick, are fast reverting to their original elements. We entered upon a road so direct, that the eye could reach eight or ten miles ahead through rows of poplars, drawn up rank and file, with as much precision as an Austrian regiment. With all its fertility and exactness of tillage, Lombardy is a dull region to the traveller, in comparison with the romantic scenery in the south of Italy. The fields are intersected by ranges of willows, irrigated by canals, and appropriated to the culture of vines, Indian corn, wheat, rice, grass, and pasturage. Domestic animals are large and fat. Cows were frequently seen yoked in the

teams.

At Pizziglione we passed a strong fortress, defended by moats, draw-bridges, and triple walls. A low wooden bridge is here thrown across the Adda, which is a large and beautiful stream, rolling down with a strong bold current. The complexion of the water is sea-green like the Mincio. the right bank is a long range of barracks, for the accommodation of the garrison upon the opposite shore.

On

At 5 P. M. we reached Lodi, and after securing lodgings for the night, hurried off to the Bridge over the Adda, the scene of the celebrated conflict between the French and Austrians. It is in the eastern part of the town, approached through a handsome gate, which bears the name of the river. The structure is of wood, built on piles, eight or ten feet

above the water. It is about seven hundred feet in length, and resembles a mole or cause-way. The Adda divides into three channels. That which washes the Lodi shore is tame and looks like a canal. A sandy island separates it from the central current, which sweeps down with grandeur, and roars among the timbers of the bridge. The cicerone informed us, that at the time of our visit it was "four men deep;" though at certain seasons it is so shoal, as to be fordable at short distances above and below a fact established by the incidents of the battle. A grassy alluvial ridge divides the main channel from another, bathing the eastern shore. The river is broad and smooth above the bridge, and a finely wooded island rises in the midst of the current. A hamlet stands upon the left bank. The scenery, embracing the Adda and its rural borders, the old fantastic bridge, and the towers of Lodi, is picturesque and interesting, independent of its associations.

Here on the 8th of May, 1796, was fought one of Napoleon's great battles, in which he commanded in person. It continued from noon till 3 o'clock. He was in the town, at the head of 40,000 troops. The Austrian army was posted on the eastern end of the bridge, the passage of which was thrice disputed, and thrice heaped with the dead. In the third attempt, the French succeeded in effecting a passage, though the enemy had decidedly the advantage in position. It was necessary for the former to pass a narrow gate, exposed to the raking fire of the Austrian artillery. Napoleon did not take an active part in the commencement of the action; but he was foremost in crossing the bridge, followed by Massena, Bernadotte, and Bertholet.

A statue of St. John stands upon the western end, near the Porta di Adda. He has been a soldier as well as a saint, and went through the battle, though he was prostrated at the first shot. To the historian and biographer I leave the detail of military movements, which had an important influence in deciding the fate of Italy. We remained upon the bridge till twilight. The scene now presented a striking contrast to the confused din of arms. Austrian soldiers were taking their evening promenade, with pipes in their mouths, instead of matches in their hands, ogling "the maids of Lodi," who crossed in platoons, with more colours flying, than were displayed by the French battalions.

On the 30th, we resumed our journey towards Milan, and

at 12 o'clock we reached the Roman Gate, which possesses much architectural grandeur, being ornamented with double ranges of Grecian columns. The officers who guard the entrance were unusually polite, contenting themselves with a moderate fee, without taking the trouble to examine our baggage. A ride on a bright day, along the spacious avenue, leading from the southern gate to the centre of the city, lined with stately buildings, paved like the Corso of Cremona, with flags for the carriage wheels, furnished with broad side-walks, and animated by a busy bustling crowd, gave us a favourable impression of the capital of Lombardy, the Paris of Italy. Excellent accommodations were obtained for a week at the Hotel de Grande Bretagne, one of the handsomest palaces in the city, and the great rendezvous of travellers.

The Cathedral of Milan is the lion of the city and of the north of Italy, not excepting the lions of St. Mark's. Much as had been read and heard of this unique edifice, it far surpassed our expectations, and excited a lively interest, even after most of the splendid temples between the two extremes of Italy, had been examined. It stands upon the Piazza del Duomo, a spacious but irregular square, which Napoleon marked out for many improvements that have never been completed. The approach, the steps, the portico will bear no comparison with St. Peter's; but nothing can be more rich, more finished or beautiful, than this Gothic pile, which is composed entirely of the finest kind of white marble. Its form is that of a Latin cross, about five hundred feet in length, half as many in height, and three hundred in the widest part. It rises by three stages from the eaves to the highest point of the roof, so as to conform to the nave and four aisles of the interior. The top is crowned with something like four hundred pinnacles, of a peculiar structure; tall, slender, and delicate, filled with niches, and thronged with statues. Although the material in every point of the exterior was originally uniform, it has assumed different complexions, from the foundations upward, corresponding with the various periods it has been exposed to the weather; as the church has been several centuries in building, and is not yet completed. These lights and shades, harmonized and softened by age, are far from impairing the beauty of the edifice.

The architecture is of the most exquisite workmanship,

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