Souvenirs of Travel - Octavia Walton Le Vert - Google Books

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CONTENTS.

PAGE

CHAPTER XXXVII.

Sevilla Bread-Orange and Olive Trees-Mairena-Spanish Companions-

Boys of Ecija-House of St. Paul-Drive along the Bank of the Guadal-

quivir-Sketch of Cordova-Abderahman-The first Palm-tree in Cordova

-The Glory of Cordova departed-Beauty and the Beast-Beggars-Plain

of Baylen-Victory of the Crusaders-St. Isadro-Pass of Despeña Perros

-La Mancha-Story of the Gipsy Girl-Delicious Wine-The Old Moor's

Tribute to Irving-El Toboso-Reminiscences of Don Quixote-Tedious

Delay-Arrival at Madrid

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

"Gate of the Sun"-Walk around the City-The Prado-The Museo-The

Tribunal-" Assumption of the Virgin," by Murillo-Works of the Old

Masters-Velasquez and Murillo-Period of the Awakening-How these

Frescoes of Art were collected-The Way they Live at Madrid-View from

the Balcony-Death of Don Carlos-Generous Tribute to the Ameri-

cans-Marquis de Alviarde-Struggles of Spain-The Truth about Spain

-Royal Armory-Museo Naval-Pictures-National Library-Plaza del

Oriente-Statue of Philip the Fourth-Palace of the Queen-Buen Retiro

-Statue of Cervantes-Children that never had Father or Mother-Pul-

monia-Exposed Situation of Madrid-Teatro del Oriente-Distinguished

Persons-Las Cortes

The Escorial—The Blind Guide, Cornelio—Apartments of Isabel the Second

and Charles the Third-Library and Portraits-Room in which Philip died

-Statue of Christ-Paintings of Navarrete the Dumb-Beggars-Our

Posada-Mass at the Escorial-Panteon-Story of Don Carlos-Apotheosis

of the Wafer-Sala de Battalas-Fine old Monks-View from the Cupola-

Court of Kings-The Poor Donkeys-The Manolo and Manola-Last

Look at Madrid-First Polyglot Bible-The Cid-Alhama-The poet

Martial-First Convent-A Peculiar People

PAGE

Zaragoza-Maid of Zaragoza-Augustina the Avenger-The Officer and his fair

Inez-Sketch of Zaragoza-Immense Bell cast by the Goths-Ruined

Fragra― Lerida -View from the Grand Rampart - Beggars - Happy

Thought-A Thrilling Scene-Our own Land of Plenty-Ignatio Loyola-

Sorrowful Memories

Barcelona-The Barcelonians-First Trial of Steam-Fortress of Monjuich—

Teatro del Liceo-The Crucifixion represented upon the stage-Sontag

-Mataró-Gerona-Figueras-Col de Pertus-Castle of Bellegarde-Le-

gend of the Pass-The Suspicious Mantilla-Perpignon-Marseilles-Be-

witched Cup of Coffee-Genoa-Spanish Priest-Guadarama Mountains—

Villa of Pallaricini - Paradisaical Beauty-The Grotto-The Fairy Isle-

Temple of Flora-A Surprise-Monument to Chiabiera-The Tramontana

-A Perilous Situation-Harbor of Genoa-View from the Steamer-Leg-

horn-The Elixir-vendor-Jewish Synagogue-Tomb of Smollett-Fri-

gate Cumberland-Passengers-Corsica-Elba-Trials and Troubles-The

Campagna-First View of Rome-Hotel of the British Isles

Drive through the City-St. Peter's Church-Crowd of Furious Women-

"Washing of Feet "-Advantage of Small Stature-Russian Grenadieress

-The "Miserere "-Relics of the Basilica-Trinità de Pelligrini-Good

Friday-Sixtine Chapel-The "Miserere "—A Local Charm-St. John of

Laterano-The Scala Santa- Transfigurating Power of Faith-Portrait of

Christ by St. Luke-Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore-Death of Mrs. Cass

-Easter Sunday-St. Peter's-Mass-The Kiss of Peace-Benediction of

the Pope-Grateful Pilgrim-Monte Pincio-Silver and Golden Illumina-

tions-Modus Operandi-La Girandola

St. Peter's-Vastness of the Edifice-Statue of St. Peter-Origin of the

Church-Michael Angelo-Beautiful Provision for Foreigners-Tower

upon the Reef-Mosaic Inscription-View from the Ball-A Last Look

-Thrilling Story of the Obelisk-The Fountains-Grotte Vaticane-Singu-

lar Marriage-The Vatican-Museo Chiaramonti-Statues of Emperor

Augustus and Demosthenes-Apollo Belvidere-Laocoon-Hall of the

Muses-Museum of Etruscan Relics-Hall of Animals-Gallery of the

Vatican-The "Transfiguration "-The "Last Judgment "-Raphael's

Frescoes-Allegorical Representations-" Expulsion of Heliodorus from

the Temple "-Battle between Constantine and Maxentius-Brief, but

Crowded Life of Raphael-Library of the Vatican

CONTENTS.

PAGE

Ruins of Ancient Rome-The Nameless Pillar-Fathomless Gulf-The Fo-

rum a Cattle Field-Arch of Titus-Baths of Titus-The Coliseum--His-

torical Sketch-Pope Benedict's Cross to the Martyrs-Palace of the

Cæsars-Octavia-Baths of Caracalla-Tomb of Scipio-Claudian Aque-

ducts-Tomb of Marcellus-Castle of St. Angelo-Tomb of Shelley-

Fountain of Egeria-Temple of Bacchus-Circus Maximus-Theatre of Mar-

cellus-Portico of Octavia-The Pantheon-The Mamertine Prison-The

Cloaca Maxima-Statue of Marcus Aurelius-Corilla Olympica-Colos-

sal Statue of Julius Cæsar-The Dying Gladiator-Lago de Tartaro-

Baths of Agrippa-Zenobia-Hadrian's Villa-Temple of the Tibertine

Sybil-Villa of Mæcenas-Beggars of Rome-Houses of Charity-Profes-

sional Models-Fountains of Rome-Propaganda Fide-Anecdotes of

Mezzofanti-Cardinal Antinelli-Immaculate Conception

Palaces of Rome-The Princess and the Peddler-Colossal Bust of Juno-Beat-

rice Cenci-Barberini Palace-Raphael's Fornarina-Doria Palace, Sciarra,

Corsini-Statue of Pompey-Remarkable Banquet to Pope Leo the Tenth

-Summer Palace of the Pope-The Pope elected by a White Deve-Tho

People Rejoice-Transformation of Daphne-Anecdote of Pauline-The

word "Stranger " an open sesame

Churches of Rome-Death of Tasso-Gaspar the Priest-Basilica-House of

Rienzi-Crawford-The Washington Monument-Page, the inner-life

Painter-Son of Mrs. Hemans-Lehman's Graziella

CHAPTER XLVIII.

Audience with the Pope of Rome-Presentation-Conversation in French,

Spanish, and Italian-Accident at the Convent of St. Agnes-The Pope

trusts in God-An illustrious name -The Benediction - Monsignore

Morning on the Pincian Hill-Rome the Metropolis of the World-Draught

from the Fountain of Trevi

Naples-View from our Apartments-Herculaneum-Pompeii-Ascent of
Vesuvius-Pedestrian Trip up the Cove-A Ludicrous Scene-The Cra-

ters-The Descent-An Eruption a Blessing-The Witches' Cave-Vesu-

vius at Sunset-Neapolitan Song-Grotto of Posilippo-Tomb of Virgil—

San Carlo-Beggars pathetic and Beggars comical-Villa Reale-St. Elmo

-Fellow-passengers-The Sea-Nymph's Grotto-The Azure Light-

Palace of Tiberius-The old Woman and her Donkey-The Sirocco

Eruption of Vesuvius-Itself Alone-Second Ascent of Vesuvius-Beppo and

Macaroni-Effect of the Lava Cataract-King of Naples

Major Thompson Brown-The Shadows of the Picture-Classic Shore of

the Scenes of the Æneid-Beggars again-Pompey-Octavia's Retreat-

Pozzuoli-Crater of the Solfaterra-Drive along the Bay-Superstition

of Vesuvius-Frescoes of Pompeii-Paintings, Statues, and Busts-The

King's Palace-Massaniello-Ceremony of the Liquefaction-The Miracle

188

192

A Day in Pompeii and a Night on Vesuvius-House of Sallust-Pompeii as it

Was and Is-Third Ascent of Vesuvius-The Destroyed and the Destroyer 201

The Lazzaroni Boy-Rafaello transfigured by a Kind Word-Drive out of
Naples-St. Agata-Haunt of Fra Diavolo-Reminiscence of Virginius-
Last look at the Mediterranean-Farewell to Rome-Etruria-The Apen-
nines-Storm on the Mountain-Falls of Terni-Beautiful Picture-The
Nightingale's Song-St Francis-Perugia-Lake of Thrasymene-Tuscany
-Sunset on the Apennines-The Skeleton in the Wall-Vallambrosa-
First View of Florence

205

Pleasant Days in Florence-Statues-Medusa's Head-Niobe-Powers-Stu-

dio of Buchanan Read-Mrs. Kinney-The Duke of Casigliano-The

Pith Palace-Curious Preparations in Wax-Laurentian Library-Tribune

of Galileo-Star gazing from Galileo's Tower-Compagnia della Miseri-

cordia-"Last Supper" by Raphael

Elizabeth Barrett Browning-The Love-Sanctified Home of the Brown-
ings-Evening with Mrs. Kinney-Evening with Powers-Drives about
the Environs of Florence-"Venus" of John of Bologna-Cascine and Bo-
bili Gardens-A Natural Cathedral-The Flower-girls of Florence-Pisa-
Campo Santo-Leaning Tower of Pisa-Tower of Hunger-Last Day in
Florence-Day of Pentecost-Mass-Farewell Visits-"Feast of Reason
and Flow of Soul"

. 219

228

Leave Florence-Ascent of the Apennines-Bologna-Novella d'Andrea-The

Leaning Towers Garisenda and Asinelli-Tomb of Guido-Elizabetta Sar-

ani-View from San Michele in Boseo-Ferrara-Tasso's Dungeon in the

Convent of Santa Anna-House of Ariosto-Dungeons of Parasina and

Ugo-Desolation of Ferrara

Venice by Moonlight-Three Pictures of Italy-House of Shylock-Last Day

in Venice-An Unshadowed Memory-Trieste

View from the Karst Mountains-Railway to Vienna-The American Min-

ister-Fête of Corpus Christi-Emperor and Empress of Austria-The

Princesses-The Host-Prince Esterhazy-The Crater-Allstadt-Relic of

the Wienerwald-Monuments-Imperial Library-National Armory-

Tedesco - Lady Westmorland-Picture of the Countess of Mornington-

Lord Raglan-Statue by Canova-The Volksgarten-Casinos-Duke of

Reichstadt-Royal Marriage of Love-The Paradise of Money has no Green

Parks-Dr. Yocobovisc

Battle of Prague-La Notte by Correggio-Banquet of Art-The Green Vault

-The German Florence-Cruel Death of Moreau-Black Aristocracy-

The Houses of Berlin-Statue of Frederick the Great-Charlottenburg-

Queen Louisa-House of Sontag-Emil Devrient-Frederika Bremer-

Baron Von Humboldt-Journey from Berlin to Cologne-The Faith of

the Russian-Coblenz-King Rhine-Beautiful Picture of Love and Old

Age-Statue of Goëthe-Rothschild-Picture of Huss-Arrival at Paris . 267

Paris in Gala Dress-“English Spoken Here "-Pleasant Réunions

The Exposition-Jewels of the Crown-America Wonderfully Represented—

Palace of Industry-The Midnight Sun .

Ball of the Countess Walewski-Entrée of Distinguished Guests-The Cri-

noline Curtsy-Count de Morney-Prince Napoléon's Reception at the

Palais Royal-Countess de Montijo-The Unique Product of Alabama—

Jerome Bonaparte-Boulevard des Italiens-Juliana Gales May-Noble

Appropriation by the Emperor--Countess Walewski--Lord Raglan--Rachel 291

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