lar occasions, such as a marriage, east, or a christening, with the honey of the palm tree, which is esteemed a great delicacy, and is procured at the price of sacrificing the whole tree. In order to obtain it, they cut off the head or crown, and scoop the top of the trunk into the shape of a bason, into which the sap rises, and, for nearly the first fortnight, yields three or four quarts a day; after this it gradually diminishes, till the juices of the tree are entirely consumed, and it is no longer valuable, but for timber, or firewood. The liquor is sweeter than honey; but, when long kept, grows tart, and acquires an intoxicating quality, which the natives do not fail to improve, by distillation.

The principal trade of many of the villages of the interior, consists in dates, which they exchange for wheat, barley, linen, and other commodities. Sometimes they purchase slaves with this fruit, giving two or three quintals of dates for a man. How degrading to human nature is such a traffic!

The Ca-poudia is a narrow strip of land, which stretches itself a great way into the sea, upon the very point of it are the ruins of the city built by the Emperor Justinian, and a high round watch-tower, which, with two others, at proper distances, serves as a beacon to ships approaching this dangerous coast.

The inhabitants of Sfax carry on a good trade, in oil and linen, and, from the indulgence of their governors, enjoy the fruits of their industry in greater security than many of their unhappy countrymen, who groan under the iron rod of oppression.

This coast produces the lotus tree in abundance. The inhabitants are very fond of the fruit, which tastes like gingerbread, and is sold in all the markets of the southern provinces. The al-hennah is a shrub that is cultivated chiefly for profit, though the odoriferous fragrance, and its clusters of beautiful flowers, might entitle it to a place in any garden, as an ornament. The leaves of this plant, when dried and reduced to powder, bring a good price, being in great request amongst the African ladies, for tinging their lips, hair, hands, and feet of a tawny, saffron colour, which, in the estimation of their admirers, greatly heightens their beauty.

The Tuniseans have no taste for ornamental gardening: they dispose of the various productions of this fertile climate, without order of attention to effect. The palm, the lotus, the al-henuah, the date, the olive, the almond, the pomegranate, the fig, the vine, the orange, and the lemon grow together in the greatest confusion, in the midst of beds of cabbages or turnips, and sometimes in patches of wheat or barley.

The soil is strongly impregnated with salt, as is evident by the brackish taste of the water in general, and the numerous salt springs and mountains of this mineral that are found in different parts of the country: the frequency of earthquakes leads me to suppose that there are likewise inexhaustible stores of sulphur, nitre, and other inflammable substances, beneath the

surface of the earth, that suddenly get vent, and overturn every thing that opposes them.

Tripoli, which we now entered, was formerly dignified with the name of a kingdom; but, at the present time, is only a republic, subject to the Ottoman Porte, under the government of a dey, who is not absolute; for he is liable to the control of a Turkish bashaw, who receives his authority from the Grand Signior, and is empowered to levy taxes on the people.

The face of the country, the manners of its inhabitants, and the produce, so nearly resemble those of Tunis and Algiers, that a minute description of them would be only a repetition of what I have already said, I shall, therefore, pass over this part of my journey, till I reach the capital city, bearing the name of the republic: it is of pretty considerable extent, and is protected by a castle and a fort. Besides the defence of a wall, which surrounds it, the soil of the neighbouring country is dry and sandy.

This city has undergone several revolutions: it was taken by Charles V. of Spain, who settled the knights of Malta in it; but they were overpowered and driven away, by the Turks, in 1551. It is diminished in power and opulence from the prosperity of former times; yet it still carries on a considerable trade in stuffs, saffron, corn, oil, wool, dates, ostrich feathers, and skins; but the principal article of commerce is the Christian slaves taken by the Corsairs, upon whom they set a very high ransom, or render them pro

fitable, by employing them in laborious works, at home.

After halting a sufficient time, in the city of Tripoli, to refresh our camels and provide a fresh stock of provisions and water, the caravan was again set in motion: continuing our route eastward, we entered the dry, sandy district of Barca, which is little better than a desert, especially towards the middle. The Arabic name is very descriptive of it, signifying the Desert of Whirlwinds. It divides Tripoli from Egypt, and a dreary waste we found it, almost destitute of water or vegetation. In the neighbourhood of the villages, we saw, occasionally, a few patches of grain; such as maize, or millet; part of which the poor inhabitants are under the necessity of exchanging for dates, sheep, and camels; as their beasts, for either food or carriage, seldom are long lived, from the great scarcity of grass; consequently, they are frequently obliged to renew their stock.

Hunting the ostrich is a favourite diversion amongst the Arabs. We one day met a party of them, on horseback, in pursuit of one of these birds: they were not less than twenty, riding against the wind, at about a quarter of a league's distance behind each other. As soon as they perceived their prey, they rushed upon it full speed. The poor terrified creature, unable to use its wings against the wind, turned towards its enemies, and easily avoided the first horseman: with difficulty it passed by two or three more; but, wearied by its exertions, it slackened its pace, and

was knocked down by the short sticks, not longer than two feet, of those that followed. They seldom make use of any other weapon to bring them to the ground. As soon as they had him completely in their power, they proceeded to kill their victim, and pluck out the feathers: the spoil was then divided, a share of the feathers and of the flesh being given to each of the hunters, they separated, and every man retired to his family, that he might regale, on the produce of his chase, with his wife and children.

These deserts are greatly infested with robbers, who, being almost destitute of clothing, or the comforts of life, seem to plunder from necessity; but they often show great cruelty, and kill those who are not able to resist them. We met several suspicious parties, but, being pretty numerous and well armed, we defied them.

When a travelling Arab is attacked by robbers, he often resists. The neighbouring Arabs, who are witnesses of the contest, always take the side of the weaker party, whether right or wrong; whoever falls, they bury the dead, and, turning their heels to the east, heap up all the stones they can collect upon his grave. Several of these rude monuments I observed at no great distance from our road. The Arabs, though thievish towards enemies, have many good qualities towards those with whom they form a friendship amongst which, I must rank gratitude.

In the course of our march through this wilderness, the horse of one of these people, belonging to