CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Steam from Marseilles - Motley assemblage - Struggle for berths -

A Sunday at sea — American sceptic — Minorca - Migratory birds

- View of Algiers Harbour- Old corsair - Grand Place

Statue of Duke of Orleans - Mosques · Costumes Omnibuses -

Governor's return from Kabylie - Soldier's burial - Anecdotes of

the war- General Yusuf- Description of the Djibbeb, or Dance

of the Beni Yssou

Missions

Negro sacrifices

Mr. Weiss.

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Page 1

CHAPTER II.

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Preparations for travel Dragoman Tents Licence for arms

Letters - Advice of the governor- -A mulish baggage-horse

Disastrous start - Fort l'Empereur — Orphélinat — Dely Ibra-

him Protestant institute Douera Interesting prisoners

Bouffarick- Successful colonization Beni Mered A valiant

guard - Mausoleum of the kings of Mauritania - Lake Halloula –

Blidah - Gorge of the Chiffa-Scenery-Monkeys-Arab Gourbis

Making game of a naturalist - Meeting Bedouins - Dog lost

Taking an inn by storm - Cheap lodgings - Mines of Mouzaïa—

Medeah- Native review · A Sheik's farewell of his son - Eager-

ness for Parisian education

Sunday at Medeah

Berrouaghuia

Open forests

horses-

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CHAPTER III.

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- Protestants in Algeria - First night in a tent -

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Spahis Their organization - A strange pet-

Water forgotten and well dry A chace after our

The Cheliff- Boghar-Panorama of the Sahara — Roman

occupation of North Africa - Triple line of posts - Dependence of

the Nomads on the Tell - Musitazana French system of military

government-Statistics-Taxation-Bokhari-Arab café - Gardens

Botanical garden - Silos, or underground granaries

CHAPTER IV.

Departure from Boghar-Fainéant farrier-Lock the door-Way-

side cabaret-In the Sahara-Camels-Jacob's flocks- A mirage

-Paradise of waterfowl - Flamingoes - Plovers - The Sheik

Bon Disah-Falconry-A bustard-hunt-The sandgrouse - Costly

birds-Sunday in the desert - Natron deposits - Whirlwinds —

Pillars of sand- Bedouin on the march - Camel-tents — Aïn

Oosera —Formation of the Steppes — Geologic record — The Zahrez

Fast in the sand-Salt-rocks-Intelligent guide - Manufacture

of saltpetre-Note on the salt-hills of Herodotus .... Page 59

CHAPTER V.

Roman ruins - Djelfa-A countryman in the Sahara - A dilatory

Dragoman A cold sponge-Dr. Reboud-Botany of the Desert

-Saharan pool — A young wife - Aïn el Ibel — Forced coloniza-

tion

Sheep-farming Rat à trompe The general hoaxed —

Bedouin shepherds- Large camp — The commander's tent — Hos-

pitable cook-Commandant Marguerite - Battle of the horses —

Hairbreadth escape Touareg embassy Puits Enez Honest

companions-Arrival at El Aghouat

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CHAPTER VI.

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78

Laghouat-The view from its citadel - Carpeted roofs - Turkish

bath - Storming of Laghouat-Native heroine - Manufacture of

morocco leather-Value of pomegranate rind - Teeth to let-

Gardens-Cultivation of the date-palm Date-wine - A female

saint's reward-Geological features - Primitive plough - Barley

cultivation- Birds - Dayats-A wounded gazelle — An equine

practical joke- Squadron of donkeys- A sportsman's dinner-party

Kouskousou Boat-launch at Laghouat Daring exploit of

the Commandant-Omar's rebellion - A new Dragoman- The

Kadi of Berryan-Scarcity of water-skins - Farewell party 92

CHAPTER VII.

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Departure from Laghouat-Early rising-Arab cavaliers - The
Dayats-Birds of prey Unsuccessful gazelle-hunt- The tere-
binth-Deborah's oak-Night camp in the Sahara Desert graves
Achmed lost-Perils of the wastes-Vain search-A tipsy guard
-Tilghremt-Troop of ostrich - The ostrich-hunt- Ostrich-eggs
Rocky Chebkha - A shower in the desert- Rivers from home —
Sanguine hopes-A murdered caravan-Berryan

110

CHAPTER VIII.

Sudden view of Berryan-Strange contrast-Imposing procession -

The reception by the Parliament - The Kadi in full dress- A

state dinner - Hospitality by taxation- Early callers - A travelled

Mozabite Arab tribe- Primitive loom An auction - Traditions

of the M'zab-Moab and Ammon-Spanish traveller-Saharan

sewerage - Dove-shooting — Cultivation of gardens - Novel wells

- Ploughs - Forbidden sweets Degenerate kouskousou-An

exigéant Dragoman - The Kadi's farewell

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CHAPTER IX.

Page 124

A narrow escape - A suspiciously-faithful guard - Omar on theology

Future of Islam-Frost in the desert- A morning scene by our

camp-fire-View of Ghardaïa-Street scene The guest-house

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- Political system of the Beni M'zab - Unpaid officials — Zickar, or

wedding-dance-A deserted city - The Wed M'zab― Gardens —

Commemoration of founders-A funeral feast - Largesse - Spirit

licence - Maine liquor-law-Value of coffee and tea - The lost

found - Return of Achmed - My ratcatcher - Lizards and mice-

Jewish jewellers Markets Manufactures - Tannin- Dyes -

Caravans-M'zab toilet-Slavery

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138

CHAPTER X.

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Mellika The sacred city— Achmed's fame — Inquisitive maidens
-The old Kadi-Wareglans-Smoking keef - Gorgeous sunset-
Love of tobacco-Horse-borrowing -A lawsuit — Municipal duties
of a Kadi — Beni Isguen- The city of soldiers - A travelled Moza-
bite White camels - · Novel mode of quarrying — House-building
by subscription - Simple loom - Rifle volunteers -Ball-practice-
Ideas of England - An unpopular chieftain - El At'f- Hospitality
Bounoura Metlili The Chaamba Our host-Parting

gifts

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. 159

CHAPTER XI.

Departure from Ghardaïa-The desert again - Wed N'ça-Vegeta-

tion in the wilderness Effects of moisture- Ostriches - Antelope

- An assault-Achmed's opinion of his race- Guerrara - Full

moon-Festivities -Intestine warfare - Use of the arch- Tombs of

the saints-Weddings- Dress Demands on a hakeem- A tra-

veller from Timbuctoo-Gh'adames-Touat-Achmed's rebellion-

Amusing trial-The oldest inhabitant-Farewell to the M'zab.. 175

CHAPTER XII.

HISTORY AND INSTITUTIONS OF THE M'ZAB.

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History of the M'zab Herodotus- Greek and Roman traditions and

reports―Gætuli and Melano-Gætuli-Touareg-Distinctness of lan-

guage Arab tradition - Jewish tale - Legends among the M'zab

Historical facts commence only with emigration from Oran-

Temporary colony at Waregla — Berryan and Guerrara — Customs

-Religious peculiarities- No dervishes-French interference —

Form of excommunication - Shame wiped out in blood-Poor-laws

- Public works - Taxation - Industry - Obstinacy-Freemasonry

Page 195

Stony desert

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Wed N'ça - New plants - Caution in camping -

Story of a midnight attack — Asleep on guard — Threatening clouds

-El Guentra - Landmarks - A homesick boy - Hardships of

camel-drivers-Wed M'zab- A night alarm - Preparations for an

encounter - Friends after all-A friendly chat- First sight of

Waregla - Rumours of war- Descent to the oasis- A saint's re-

venge-Halt at the gate-Sidi Zobeir- An Arab aristocrat - A

feast - Public toilet - Ride through the city- Ruined palace-

A costly Sultan - History of Waregla― Jews-Old coins- Gar-

dens Attempt at colonization - Geological speculations 210

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CHAPTER XIV.

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Arms

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The Touareg Embassy to Algiers - Dr. Barth — Touareg passport

- Djebel Hoggar - Hidden wells- Mahari, or white dromedaries

Costume of the Touareg

Language Troubles at

Waregla Marocain mountebanks- -A tea-party with an agha

Report of a battle-Our host's brother slain-Hasty retreat-Pre-

paration of a chieftain's letter - Ride to N'goussa-Singular tombs

Arab honesty A N'goussa feast Alarms of robbers

watchful guard

CHAPTER XV.

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An early start - Moonlight march- An active guide-Which is the

route? The enemy's camp-fire — Recklessness of Arabs - Halt at

daybreak - Skulkers detected - A cavalry charge and capture-

The prisoner's story-Traces of a struggle - Dromedary-men-

Camels give in— Weary march — Hadjira at last — A Mussulman

saint A quiet resting-place- Escape of a fugitive to the city of

refuge Visit of ceremony- State reception - Devout horsemen

Aïn Bahrdad - Story of the Mekhasni's exploit-A vigilant shep-

herd-An unhealthy city.

Blad et Amer-Nature and art in

decay Descent into the Wed R'hir

CHAPTER XVI.

Tuggurt-Confines of French dominion-

Native troops - Hungarian

sergeant The palace of the Bey - Miscellaneous inhabitants

Imperial furniture- An ancient throne - Visit of the Bey-

Arrival of French column - Varied equipments

The camp

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pitched — Why do we travel? — Night-stroll in the camp-Christ-

mas cheer - General Desvaux African falcons Cotton

Meeting with a countryman - Political ideas of a native soldier-

Marshes and lake of Tuggurt — A new fish-Geological specula-

tions..

Page 268

CHAPTER XVII.

HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF TUGgurt.

Doubtful Roman remains - Tuggurt the metropolis of the Wed R'hir

- Allusions of Shaw and Leo Africanus - Political constitution

- A fortunate shepherd - Wars with Constantine - Capture by

General Desvaux - Deposition of the Sultan-Mussulman Jews—

Jewellers Massacre of the Beni M'zab-Ruined mosque - Hor-

ticulture Trade and commerce. - Ancient artesian wells - Pesti-

lential miasma - The Dour, or "Turn-again" of invaders

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CHAPTER XVIII.

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Starved out of Tuggurt - A refractory Dragoman Temaçin A

Wed R'hir city - Busy market-scene Zouïa Solitary French

officers-A sublimated marabout- Royal and Imperial gifts-A

misplaced cart-Warrior saint A Bedouin dominie - Cheerful

soldiers Omar returns - The priest's steward a valuable guide -

Weary desert ride-Solitary well- Breasting the sand-waves

Souf at last The hospitable Khalifat - Magnificent reception — A

night of plenty after a day of scarcity — Saharan's opinion of English

and French religions - Dryness of Souf - Domed roofs - Female

ornaments-Market-Purchases of silk Gardening under diffi-

culties Birds and beasts - Shooting at Souf

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CHAPTER XIX.

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The warrior Sheik of Souf - A desert foray -- Tunis and France

Commercial politics of the Sahara - Reports of Roman cities in the

interior - The prison of Souf-The wild ass of the Sahara -

Arrival of a horseman from G'hadames - Capitaine Bonnemain

Trade- Dates-Fabrics Caravans-Wonderful powers of sight-

The Arabs of Souf - Our departure Taïbeit - A nocturnal in-

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