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703

artist, and evidently regarded the whole expe- an encouraging smile; "you needn't be afraid
dition as ruined.
to come out!"

66

"Never mind, Timothy, my boy," said I, assuming a cheerfulness which I did not feelnever mind. This accident is doubtless Providential. So far from ruining my sketch, I think it increases the spirit. Don't you see the indomitable Grant is now blazing away at Richmond? Look at the clouds of smoke! Here's Richmond-this crushed box of lucifers; and here's Jeff Davis-a smashed oyster!"

I don't know whether he felt the force of the remark, but my trusty whipster brightened up after this, and went to work cheerily to get the horses hitched to the wagon. No material damage was done, after all-only a few small stores sacrificed to the great cause of human progress. By the same skillful system of navigation we at length reached the turning-off point, where we left the cañon, and ascended a hill to the right, from the summit of which we had a grand view of Walker's Valley and the Bullion Range of mountains to the south.

It

would Mrs. Grundy say? Deuce take it, why
"I know they don't care, Timothy; but what
don't they go?"

suitable answer to this question, it occurred to
While Timothy was casting about him for a
me that I heard strange voices in the distance.
some anxiety.
"What's that-who's coming?" I asked, with

side of the river.
Timothy looked up the road on the opposite
family," said he, quietly, "two or three men
"Oh, that's only an emigrant
and some women and children.
bound for California.'
Guess they're

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bound. They had to cross the river where I It mattered very little to me where they were was blockaded; and a painful consciousness took possession of me that there could not be a more unbecoming spectacle for an emigrant family than that of a middle-aged gentleman, with a bald spot on his head, disporting himself in the water before a bevy of Pi-Ute squaws.

"Timothy, my boy," said I, in extreme consternation, "can't you run up the road and engage the enemy while I make an effort to get my clothes on or hide in the bushes?"

with a surprised look, as if he had not previous"Oh, Sir," answered my trusty whipster, ly suspected me of any unusual depravity, "if you wish to be left alone here of course I'll go."

Four miles below we reached the first crossing of Walker River. Contrasted with the barren slopes of the surrounding mountains the verdure of the bottom lands was peculiarly refreshing. Even at this dry season-the dryest known for many years-the river contained an abundance of water, pure, fresh, and sparkling, from the snowy heights of the Sierra Nevadas. was a rare treat, in these hot and desert regions, to stand by the water's edge and see the generous flood dash over the rocks and flow in eddy-driven the horses across the river, and the last Before I could guess his meaning he had ing currents over the clear gravelly bottom-so I saw of him, as he disappeared on the other rare to me, indeed, that I quickly divested my-side, he was shaking his head in a sorrowful self of my dust-covered habiliments and took a manner-having evidently lost all confidence in plunge in the deepest pool I could find. of your Russian baths--your baths of Constantinople and Damascus ! What could equal the luxury of a plunge in this mountain stream after a day's journey through scorching sands and crackling sage-brush and cañons that held the air like a bake-oven! This was luxury beyond description, bought by sweat and toil, such luxury as the indolent lounger in the Orient never dreamed of. And there were houris too; and they came and sat upon the bank and enjoyed my sportive motions in the water; copper-colored, flat-nosed, thick-lipped houris, of the PiUte race, with red blankets over their bodies and fat babies in their arms. My man Timothy, without regard for the illusions of romance, or the tender influences of beauty, remarked that they were Pi-Ute squaws, on a "hogadie expedition"—"hogadie" signifying muck-a-muck, or food. There was but one way of making my escape from the water to that part of the bank upon which I had left my clothes.

tered clothing, and retreat into a thicket of Talk human virtue. To rush out, grasp up my scatthorny bushes, was the frantic achievement of a moment. laughed. It was natural enough they should Of course the bevy of Pi-Utes enjoy so novel a scene-a white man hopping, in a nude state, over rocks and thorns, as if for his life, with a bundle of rags under his arm. never knew a female in my life who didn't laugh I at the discomfiture of man in this its most aggravated form.

"Give them hogadie, Timothy, and tell them to leave."

He gave them crackers and meat, and motioned to them to be off; but they only laughed and sat down on the bank again. It was soci

able, to say the least.

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somewhat excoriated but not altogether disheart-
As soon as possible I emerged from the bushes,
ened, and proceeded on foot after my wagon and
driver. I found Timothy engaged in a pleas-
ant conversation with some ladies who had just
crossed the plains. They were on their way to
California. It was refreshing to meet with such
enterprising females; and I was nothing loth to
join in the conversation.
of the party occupied themselves in hunting up
The male members
some of their laggard stock.

It was getting late, however, and we were
ranch by night.
forced to push on in order to reach Lawson's

A few farms had been started on the bottom
lands, and we passed some very cozy little farm-
houses and thrifty gardens. The river is fringed

They don't care, Sir," said Timothy, with with willow, sycamore, and a species of cotton

704

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EMIGRANT FAMILY.

wood, resembling balm of Gilead. We followed
its course about seven miles through a series of
narrow valleys, on the left side, till we reached
a gorge in the mountains through which it
passes. At this point there is a good ford, over
which we crossed. Lawson's Ranch commences
here. A drive of half a mile took us to the
house; a frame shanty pleasantly situated near
the road. Mr. Lawson was at home, and kind-
ly offered us the accommodations of his place.
He has an excellent farm, well cultivated, and
a garden abounding in luxuries. Corn, beets,
melons, potatoes, and many other kinds of vege-
tables seem admirably adapted to the soil and
climate.

The general appearance of the Walker River Valley is barren. Very little timber is to be seen, except on the distant spurs of the Sierras. The everlasting sage-bush is the staple product of the country. A farmer from the Western States, accustomed to luxuriant pastures and endless forests, would turh away in horror from such a desolate scene; and his first impulse would be to set down any man who suggested the idea of cultivating it as a fit subject for a lunatic asylum. Still more absurd would he regard the assertion, often made by the old settlers in Nevada and firmly believed, that this very land, apparently so barren, is more productive than the best land in the Western States. It is a well-established fact that no such yield can be obtained in any of the Atlantic States. This is partly attributable to the difference of climate, and partly to the natural fertility of the soil in Nevada. Owing to the mineral discoveries in this Territory, and the absorption of capital and labor in the development of the mines, agriculture has been almost entirely neglected. Yet nothing has paid so certainly and so wellnot even the best mines and mills.

Lawson's Ranch may be considered the beginning of the main East Walker River Valley. On the right The bottom gradually widens. lies a sloping plain, barren in appearance but abounding in some of the finest lands east of the Sierras. A survey of this country has recently been made by Major E. A. Sherman, under the auspices of a company of Aurorians, with a It is in view of opening it up for settlement. contemplation to make a canal or acequia from The opening out of so large a tract of arable Lawson's Ford for the purpose of irrigating the extensive tract of land now lying waste between land to settlement and cultivation, in a country the foot-hills and the river bottom. There can where agricultural products are in such demand, be no doubt that the project is feasible, and would would be a most profitable and beneficial enterrepay the expense. The descent of the river is prise. A ready market for all the cereals and sufficient to give a fall of water at every point. for vegetables of every kind may be found in the At least a hundred thousand acres of the finest adjacent mining districts. At present all the valley land could thus be redeemed. A similar fruits and most of the grain used in Nevada are system of irrigation has been successfully prac-imported from California at a heavy expense for ticed by the early Spaniards in Sonora and Ari- transportation. zona: and there are now in the vicinity of Salt Lake and other parts of Utah many hundred thousand acres of sage-desert brought under successful cultivation by the introduction of wa

ter.

People living on the eastern slope of the Sierras are beginning to understand that water is all they require to make the most unpromising parts of the country highly productive.

The few farmers in Carson Valley have made handsome fortunes. Barley raised any where on the Eastern slope has an advantage of three to five cents a pound over the imported article; in other words, the cost of freight may be added to whatever can be produced in this region. Hay seldom rates at less than $40 a ton-often at $60 and $100; and this of a very poor and coarse quality. Few,

if any, flour-mills have yet been established in | enjoying a dance on the green flat in front of the country, owing to the scarcity or high price the wagons. A group of older members of the of wheat. In short, it may be emphatically stated that no part of the world offers greater inducements to farmers; and the quantity of land subject to irrigation is so small, compared with the population and area of territory, that there will always be a remunerative market for agricultural products.

Other considerations claim attention in looking to the future of Nevada. The high price of labor in the mines, arising chiefly from the great expense of living, is a serious drawback to the prosperity of the country. The best mines are exhausted in paying expenses. Capitalists can not understand why it is that, with such enormous gross yields, the net results are so small. Fraud and mismanagement are of course prolific causes; but under the most favorable circumstances the mines can never be profitable where labor is so high. To remedy this the expense of living must be reduced. Agriculture must be encouraged. The heavy percentage now paid to teamsters for hauling provisions across the Sierras must be saved, or so applied as to develop the resources of the country.

party were sitting on a bank, looking on with a pleased yet a thoughtful interest. Their dancing days had passed, and they were drawing toward their journey's end. There were among them some elderly ladies, who seemed to derive a sober sort of comfort from their pipes, which they smoked in the good old-fashioned style of the backwoods. To these, as the responsible members of the party, I addressed myself—hazarding the conjecture that they were just across the plains.

"Yes-been here nigh onto four weeks," said one of the ladies, puffing off a suppressed cloud of smoke from her pipe. "Our men has mostly gone across to Californy to see what's the chances for fodder. Folks tells us it's powerful dry over there."

"I'm sorry to say it's rather dry just now, ma'am ; but California is a fine country when it rains."

"Wa'al, I don't know what to think," replied the talkative lady. "Some folks told us we'd better stop at Reese, and folks tell us here we'd better stop at Walker, and then again folks say Californy's the best country. I don't know. It ought to be a good country, for it takes a dreadful long time to get to it, and costs a pile of money."

Indirectly other advantages must follow the encouragement of agriculture. Schools and colleges will be established; an improved condition of society will take the place of that lawless state of things which always exists in a new I respectfully inquired if the families had encountry where the male population largely pre-joyed good health on the journey across the dominates; and employment will be furnished to that surplus of adventurers who now live upon the industry of others.

Continuing our journey down the valley from Lawson's, after a good night's rest, we encountered during the day several large bands of American horses, which had been recruiting for some time past on the luxuriant pastures of the river-bottom after their dreary journey across the plains. This was the first good grazing country on the route after passing Salt Lake and Ruby Valley. Here the way-worn emigrants and their jaded teams found rest and plenty, and here we found them, from time to time, in the full enjoyment of the abundance that surrounded them. Wagons were drawn up by the river banks in pleasant groves of willow; the lowing cattle gathered on the green pastures near by; the camp-fires sending up cheerful clouds of smoke, and the merry voices of children making a sweet accord with the lively strains of flute and violin. At one point, where the grass was luxuriant and the willow abundant, we came upon an encampment consisting of some ten or a dozen families. About twenty wagons were drawn up in lines, and several tents were scattered along the banks of the river in cozy little nooks, some of them decorated with flags. It was evidently a Union camp, which I regret to say was not the case in every instance that came under our observation. I was attracted by the merry strains of music and shouts of laughter that greeted our arrival; and soon perceived that the young men and women were

plains.

"Wa'al, only tolerable. Me and my man has been ailin' considerable. Betsy Jane, she had a spell of ager, Lovysee, she was took with a spindle-fever till her legs warn't no thicker than your thumb; Zeke, he fell out of the wagon and like to a busted his head; and the baby, he's troubled with a diary. Some of the families is wuss an' we are; and some again get along pretty peert considerin'. I tell you, stranger, 'tain't no easy trip across these sagedeserts. What with Injuns an' alkali an' dust an' one thing or 'nother, it's a powerful hard road to travel."

I consoled the old lady by telling her what a glorious country California was, and how much better the climate was than that of Missouri. Besides, it was a strong Union State, and gave every body a fair chance to live in peace and plenty.

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The

Stranger," ," said the old lady, brightening up, "what's the news about the war?" "Good news, ma'am - good news. Union army triumphant every where. The rebellion caving in. There won't be a fly-speck for the rebels to hang a hope on in six months."

"Hooray! durn 'em! This camp is all Union. We started pretty well mixed, but split on the way. Secesh took one road-we took t'other. Pop, he's Union to the hub. Folks told us before we came to a little town t'other side of Austin we'd better look out. Every body was secesh there. Our wagon was two days ahead of the rest. We was all

alone. Pop he stuck out his flag, an' sez he, | farms, plenty of stock, and all the accessories of

'I'll stake my chances on that!' Just outside of town a fancy-looking fellow rides up an' sez he, 'Cap, take a fool's advice an' haul down your dish-rag. We don't tolerate your breed here. This is a secesh camp.' Pop, he fires up and says, 'Stranger, if you're spilin' for a diffikilty you kin hev it. The first man that lays a hand on that flag I'll drop him sure!' Chiv he looked black, but Pop had his turkeybuster well in hand; and Chiv changed his base and fell back on the town. Pop cracked his black snake, and we all rid in with flyin' colors. The gals jined in a chorus, and all of us, big an' little, peeked out of the wagon and giv 'em, as we rid along the main street, Rally round the flag, boys, rally round the flag!' which stirred 'em up considerable."

"Did they molest you?" I asked, with much interest.

"You bet they didn't. They looked mighty hard at Pop as he sot with his rifle in one hand an' his black-snake in t'other; but something in his eye didn't please them. 'Let him rip!' said they, and we ripped. We gave them a partin' stare as we left the town, Hurrah for Abe Linkeln! Oh, you bet the country's all safe so far as we're concerned."

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civilized homes. It was thus we found Mr. Shimmens. His dwelling is pleasantly situated at the base of Lookout Mountain, with a broad alluvial valley in front, beautifully watered by the river and its numerous "sloos" and branches; and although this was only his second year he has now a fine farm, well fenced, and a garden abounding in vegetables of the best quality. His pastures yield excellent hay, and afford an unlimited range for his cattle. It was altogether a pleasant scene-this homestead in the wilderness; and I shall not readily forget the kindness and cordiality with which I was greeted by this worthy family. For here again, to my surprise and gratification, I found that Harper's Magazine had preceded me, and paved the way to a very pleasant acquaintance. At the hospitable board of Mr. Shimmens I enjoyed many a luxurious meal; and the evenings were rendered delightful by the reminiscences of our host, whose adventurous career across the plains would furnish material for a romance. Nor were we without the refinements of music and song. A melodeon, slightly cracked and somewhat wheezy after its long journey, was one of the institutions of the house. The daughter of our host, a young lady of sweet sixteen, favored us with several popular airs, such as "Lucy Long," "Old Dan Tucker," the "Arkansas Traveler," etc., and a number of patriotic songs of more recent origin.

One of the notable features of the country is the Gold Hill Range, situated about two miles from Shimmens's Ranch. Some very promising auriferous veins were discovered here in 1862, and there was, as usual, a great rush to the

I thought it was, and having expressed my satisfaction, gave Timothy the wink to drive on. We stopped for the night at a comfortable farm-house belonging to a Mr. Shimmens, an emigrant, who on crossing the plains last year was so much pleased with the Walker River Valley that he determined to locate a claim and try what he could do at farming and stock-raising in this isolated part of the world. Nothing can be more characteristic of American enter-Walker River country. Claims were staked off prise and the progressive spirit of the age than for a circuit of ten miles, and companies were the daring hardihood with which families from organized without regard to reason, facts, or posthe Western States settle themselves down amidst sibilities. Several hundred veins were opened; the wilds of Nevada, surrounded by sage-deserts most of them yielding a fair show of gold and and Indians. Often they go to work plowing silver. Assays were made rating at $50 to $100 the land and putting in crops before they have to the ton. A worthy Professor of my acquaintso much as a shanty to cover their heads, or ance living in Oakland was attracted thither by even the slightest assurance that the climate is the noise of the discovery. It was his ambition suitable for farming purposes. The risk of the to make a fortune, and devote the remainder of undertaking seems to give it a charm, and they his days to the study of Plato and Aristotle. go ahead with an easy confidence that would He knew nothing about quartz-mines or quartzastonish the people living in older and more mills; but he was a classical scholar and a gensettled countries. It is no uncommon thing to tleman of varied scientific attainments. Of what see men in this part of the world turning up the avail was all this knowledge if he could not virgin soil and whistling cheerily at their work, build a quartz-mill? He was poor, but he had while their wives and children are dwelling in friends and credit. Like a brave man he went all the luxury of unlimited freedom under a to work, and by dint of algebraic equations, bunch of willows or a brush-wood wigwam. A trigonometry, geometry, and an occasional referfew cows, a sack or two of beans, a small supence to Plato and Aristotle, he built a quartzply of flour and groceries, and such other rem- mill. On the banks of Walker River the wreck nants of their original outfit as may be left con- of that mill stands to this day. I saw it myself, stitute the bulk of their worldly possessions; and made a sketch of it from the Granite Bluff. yet they are hopeful and happy. It is seldom I refer to that mill as a solemn warning to they fail to make a good living. I have met Professors. There was no trouble about getting families just from the Western States with no the ores. Wagon-loads came pouring down better outfit, who in the course of a year or two from the Gold Hill Range. The Professor was were as comfortably situated as any reasonable in ecstasies. His mill-wheels flew around with people could desire; having good houses, thrifty a tremendous clatter; his battery battered up

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GRANITE BLUFF.

the quartz at an amazing rate; his amalgamating pans made the finest of suds! all went ahead smashingly-only the machinery was new and required grease. The Professor greased it -greased the water-wheel, the battery, the amalgamating pans, every thing that was worried by friction. Then the machinery worked to a charm; then the Professor gazed admiringly through his spectacles at the result of his skill, and was pleased to think that he would soon be able to retire into the quiet shades of his Academical groves. Well, the Professor is a kind friend and a good neighbor. I must deal gently with him. When the great day came to determine the result of all this working-to test the wonderful advantages of education and intellect over vulgar prejudice in matters of this kind-the wheels were stopped, the pans were cleaned up, and the result was-I would be sorry to hazard a conjecture where it was. People said it was in the tailings. Back of the mill was a sluice which was found to be rich in gold. At all events the gold was nowhere else. Some hinted that grease and quartz have no amalgamating affinities, that the grease carried the precious metals with it; but this I consider a thoughtless fling at the Professor. The trouble was in the machinery. A few thousand dollars would remedy it. But thousands of dollars were getting scarce.

in a neighboring hill. Here a happy coterie of hardy adventurers lay blockaded nearly all the winter. Sometimes the Professor read his beloved Pla to, or philosophized to his fellows like Diogenes in his tub; sometimes he looked out upon the dreary expanse of water, and saw with sorrow his mill and his hopes of the Academical groves vanish day by day. Spring came at last; the country dried up; the Professor cast a long lingering look at the wreck of his mill, girded up his loins, and with a heavy sigh wended his way homeward, serious but not subdued. He is still an enthusiastic believer in that mill and the Walker River country. All he wants now to make it a grand success is capital. And, indeed, to do strict justice to his discernment, nobody questions the richness of the lodes in the Gold Hill Range, though many doubt whether they can be successfully worked by mills built on the Professor's plan.

In the mean time attention was attracted elsewhere by new discoveries, and before any thing could be done in this district it was abandoned. It fell by default rather than from any want of confidence in its resources.

Upon a somewhat cursory view of the lodes in the Gold Hill Range, which I visited with Mr. Shimmens and some of his neighbors, I am inclined to believe there is good ore in them. Some of the specimens I saw taken out present very fair indications. The lodes are not wide, but they are numerous, and easy of access either from the surface or by means of tunnels. rious chimney-like formations of quartz crop out all over the Gold Hill Range. Flag-staffs had been erected in the most prominent of these by Major Sherman, who had recently made a survey of the district.

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I had erected my tent on a pleasant little flat by the river-side, within a few hundred yards of Shimmens's house. Here, with my man Timothy, I kept a sort of bachelor's hall, entertaining all visitors in the most hospitable style. On the second morning after our arrival I was reThen came the disastrous flood of '62. It joiced to see the familiar face of my friend Fanswept down the valley from the gulches and ning peering through the willow bushes. He cañons of the Sierra Nevadas, carrying with it had walked all the way from Aurora. It was a haystacks, cabins, and even farms. I knew a source of genuine happiness to me to find him man whose entire farm was swept clean off-well and sprightly after his heavy siege in Aurosoil, house, barns, haystacks, fences and all. ra. Not a word was said on the subject. The There was nothing left of it but a desert sand- Doctor shook hands as kindly and cordially as bottom. The honest miners were nearly starved if we had never deserted him. He had lost all The roads to Aurora and Carson were cut the bricks out of his hat, and was now clear of off by impassable torrents and lagoons. There head and steady of hand. was no such thing as travel, except on the rugged ridges of the mountains. The Professor was forced to abandon his mill and seek refuge in a hole which he and his friends burrowed

out.

Among the wonders still to be seen was the Iron Mountain-a discovery recently made by the Doctor, upon which, in common with myself and others, he founded his most sanguine

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