After rounding Lalarie Point in the S.E. monsoon the flood runs N.N.W., and the ebb S.S.E. along the Banka shore.

The time of high water at Laboh Point being 24 hours later than at Toboe Ali Point, in the southern part of the Stanton Channel, for a few days after full and change, (as there is generally twelve hours flow and ebb,) the tides will be found to run in one direction all night, and in the opposite direction all day, at a rate of 2 or 3 knots. As the current sets directly through, the flood N.W.b.W. and the ebb S.E.b.E., vessels in light airs may safely drop through.

In the N.W. monsoon it is H.W. at F. & C. at the Nangka Islands at 7h. a.m., rise about 9 feet. At Kalian Point, near Mintok, it is H.W. at 8h. 17m. a.m., rise 12 feet. Eddies and small races will be found near the Nangka Islands, caused by the wave of flood from the China Sea meeting that from the southward.

Between Bata-karang and Fourth Points the freshes from the river after heavy rain accelerate the current in Banka Strait, as it sets over to Kalian Point, until nearly mid-channel. Vessels sometimes take advantage of this to complete water, as it is frequently quite fresh on the surface. In the N.W. monsoon a S.E. current will always be found, following the trendings of the bank along the Sumatra coast, whilst on the Banko shore the tidal stream is more regular.

Navigation of the Strait.-Directions for Stanton Channel from the Southward.-Vessels entering Banka Strait by the Stanton Channel from South, on recognizing Mount St. Paul and Toboe Ali lama Peak, should approach the latter on a northern bearing, and when about three miles South of the Dapur Islands should steer N.W.b.W. to abreast Banka Point; then run along the Banka shore, passing Lalarie Point at about a mile and a third's distance on to Second Point. When Pulo Dahun bears North be very careful to avoid the spit extending S.E. from the shore mud flat, between that island and Banka Point. The Mamelon or Hummock, N.W. N., well open West of Pulo Besar, clears this spit and the whole mud bank along the Banka shore; thence to the Tambaga Rocks the bank may be avoided by not shoaling the water to less than 10 fathoms.

Vessels working through the Stanton Channel may approach the Dapur Islands on the South to half a mile. Between them and Toboe Ali the mud flat of the shore may be approached until Pulo Dapur bears S.E.b.E. E.; but when Gadong Peak is N.E. N.; or on with Toboe Ali Fort, Pula Dapur must not come southward of S.E.b.E. E. to clear the S. W. part of the Eastern Bank.

By not opening Parmassang Peak further West of Banka Hill than N.W. N., the Melvill Bank will be cleared, and when Laboh Point is N.E.N., by keeping in more than 10 fathoms will clear all the banks on both sides. Lalarie Point N.W.b.W. clears the N.E. part of Smitz Bank.

The shoals of the Nemesis Bank should not be approached to less than 10 fathoms until Casuarina Point opens of Lalarie Point; and in rounding the latter be careful not to shoal the water under 10 fathoms, as the bank is here steep. Avoid the Tambaga Rocks by the same

rule, and, until a more complete examination of the Banka shore is made, now work up from Second Point along the Sumatra shore.

Adopting Stanton Channel from the West, when abreast of Lalarie Point a mile and a half off, E.S.E. leads nearly mid-channel between the Nemesis Bank and that of the Banka shore; but when Panjang Hill bears N.E., keep more southerly, so as to pass mid-channel. When Dahun Point bears North, or the Hummock N.W. N., open of Pulo Besar also leads direct through.

Vessels working through Stanton Channel from West in the S.E. monsoon, must take the precautions already mentioned, avoiding the shoalest part of the Nemesis Bank; they will be passed when the Mamelon bears N.b.E. E. If a flood tide be running strong, anchor in 8 or 9 fathoms, sand, on the Nemesis Bank,) the water on both sides being deep,) and wait the change of tide or the chance of the land breeze, which comes either at night or early in the morning from the Banka shore. When Panjang Hill bears N.E., Lalarie Point must not be brought North of N.W.b.W. to avoid Smitz Bank, and the precaution of not approaching the banks under 10 fathoms until Laboh Point bears N.E. N., will enable any vessel to work through.

Anchorage may be found anywhere in the Stanton Channel, but ships bringing up with their kedge or stream anchors must always be prepared to let go a bower, as dangerous squalls come on with heavy rain, thunder, and lightning, especially at the change of the monsoon, and generally last for about an hour.

Lucipara Channel.-The coast line bordering the Lucipara Channel is formed of mangrove jungle, and was found to extend considerably more eastward than shown in the Dutch chart. This extension has evidently taken place since their former survey in 1818, and it may be attributed to the sediment from the numerous small rivers in that vicinity affording more soil for the growth of the prolific mangrove. The contour of the dry mud was obtained and sounded close to at the springs, and will be a guide to show any further extension.

The Dutch naval officers have evidently been long acquainted with this fact, and they state that the whole coast of Sumatra facing Banka Strait in the bights, and wherever mangrove is found growing, is annually progressing outwards. This remark applies to the bays, and more especially to the outlets of rivers, but not to Eerst, Tweede, and the other principal points where a different kind of tree will be found, and the rapid current sweeping round these abrupt points prevents any further extension taking place.

Parmassang Peak in line with Eerst Point, bearing N.b. W. W., instead of leading nearly mid-channel between Lucipara Island and Lucipara Point, (according to former charts,) will now take a vessel not more than a third of a mile from the 3-fathom edge of the bank off that point. In running through from the southward this mark should be left when Lucipara Island bears about E.S.E., and by keeping the Mamelon Hummock on a N. W. bearing, it will lead through; but as the banks bounding the eastern side of the channel have also increased, and now form almost one continuous ridge from Lucipara

Island to the Merapie Shoal; and subsequently finding that the narrow part of the channel is from the above cause contracted to a breadth of only a mile and a quarter, Mr. Stanton has no hesitation in stating as his opinion that the Lucipara Channel within a few years will be unnavigable for vessels of large draught.

During the survey of this channel the Saracen was much retarded by strong tides, setting to the northward all day, which frequently compelled her to proceed during the night to the southward to regain her ground. No fresh water was found on Lucipara Island.

Buoy.-A white conical buoy surmounted by a ball was lying in 3 fathoms, at three and a half cables to the N.W. of the N. W. end of the southernmost bank on the eastern side of the Lucipara Channel. From it Eerste Point bore N.N.W. eight and a third miles, and Lucipara Island S.E. E. nine miles. No dependence, however, can be placed on its remaining long in one position, owing to the strong tide and many floating trees. The buoy was recently picked up off Mintok, and in the calm weather at the change of the monsoon it will be replaced in its former position.

Sand Ridges off South End of Banka.—At the entrance of Banka Strait, in the S.E. monsoon, the ebb tide during the night at springs will be found setting to the S.E.; consequently many vessels, although steering a course for the strait, get set between Pulo Dapur and Tanjong Baginda. This part of the South end of Banka being almost a blank (on the Dutch chart), I decided to survey it, and also to extend my examination in searching for the coral reef, reported as lying fifteen miles from the South end of Banka.

Tanjong Baginda, Mount St. Paul, Lucipara Islands, and the other prominent points offering good objects for fixing our position, we were enabled to extend our soundings twenty miles off the land. When anchored near the reported position of the coral reef, several vessels passed South of us, from one to six miles distant; therefore it was useless to continue the search any further in that direction, as it would have taken the Saracen directly in the track of vessels bound for Gaspar Strait, where it is improbable that a reef of this extent should exist, and no other vessels have reported it.

The soundings were found to be very irregular, long sand ridges, with deep water over a muddy bottom between. None of these banks have less than 5 fathoms on them, with the exception of one lying S.E. a mile and a third from Pulo Dapur, where there are several patches of 3 fathoms over a sandy ground. At seven miles E.b.S. of these patches, and separated by deeper water, is a bank of 4 fathoms, coral and sand, extending in an easterly direction for three miles; it appears to be a continuation of the Dapur Bank, and from its shoalest part Tanjong Baginda bears N.E.b.N. six miles.

At full and change great overfalls were repeatedly noticed, caused by the meeting of the ebb stream from Banka and Gaspar Strait over an uneven bottom. This has also been noticed by other navigators,*

* See Horsburgh, vol. ii., page 182. 1855.

NO. 2.-VOL. XXX.

N

and ships were cautioned not to approach the South end of Banka nearer thau four and a half leagues. This survey will now give mariners confidence to approach the land to two miles, and enable them at night to know their position by the soundings. As no soundings appear to have been taken by the vessel that discovered the coral reef, and as its position is placed directly in the track of ships bound to Banka and Gaspar Strait, and might occasion great delay to them by unnecessarily having to alter course, I beg to suggest that the reef should be erased from our charts, one of the overfalls already mentioned being probably mistaken for a reef.

The weather was very fine during the survey, and the contrast of a fine working breeze and the clear blue sky, after the muddy water and hot land wind experienced in the strait, produced such a beneficial effect that several of the crew, who were sick, got speedily restored to health. Returning to Banka Strait, wood and water were completed at Toboe Ali, and former observations of the tides were confirmed.

Continuing the survey along the Banka coast of Banka Strait, we sounded inside the 3-fathom line of last year, and fixed the edge of the dry mud bank. There is no appearance of this coast extending like the opposite side, except near the rivers where there is a daily deposit going on.

From the Timbago Rocks, the coast was surveyed forming the deep bay of Sungei Slan to the Nangka Islands, and the dry mud was sounded close to. No water could be procured at these islands, a circumstance which often happens during the S.E. or dry monsoon. From hence proceeded towards Mintok, filling up many vacant places with soundings, completed water, observed the spring tides, and finally nearly finished the survey of the Sumatra coast between Vierde Point and the Sungei Assing.

Weather. The weather during the latter part of July was very unfavourable for boat work, frequently having several days continuous rain and heavy squalls. During the past month light airs and calms were experienced, no rain and a close oppressive atmosphere making the temperature, even for Banka Strait, unusually warın. This has produced great sickness ashore, At Mintok the Dutch have one third of their military force in hospital; but at the other military station, Toboe Ali, situated on the weather side in the S.E. monsoon, there is no sickness. In the other monsoon the northern end of Banka Strait is the healthier. During this cruise the Saracen was anchored as far as possible from the mud at night, and the health of the crew was greatly benefitted by filtering the water.

At the commencement of this survey many of the vessels of the China squadron were met with, and supplied with charts and any other information respecting the navigation required; they have all passed through safe, English and French, without a single vessel touching the ground. On the contrary, several fine vessels have recently been lost in Gaspar Strait.

The result of our experience this year proves that a great mistake has been hitherto made by ships working along the Sumatra coast,

where, in the full strength of the monsoon, they have not only a strong wind, but generally an adverse current, to contend with. On the Banka shore, on the contrary, vessels may carry a fair tide all the way through, by starting from either extremity at low water, and frequently find a land wind at night. The land also, after passing Tanjung Tadah, may be safely approached by the lead to the Timbaga Rocks. The Saracen has often when sounding worked to windward under fore and aft sails, when clipper ships were compelled to remain at anchor many days on the opposite coast. There is nothing to prevent an indifferent sailing vessel going through against the monsoon in two or three days, whereas by the old route they are often detained several weeks.

Proposed Lights.-Two years is the time stated to finish the light tower building on Kalian low sandy point, at the northern end of Banka Strait. It will show a fixed white light of the second order, elevated 160 feet above high water, and visible sixteen miles in clear weather. A small harbour light will also be exhibited from the end of Mintok pier, which is also building.

The Dutch intended having another light on Lucipara Island. The resident of Banka and senior Dutch naval officer having requested me to give my opinion on the subject, I have suggested that a lightvessel should be moored about four miles and a half South of Pulo Dahun in the center of the Stanton Channel, and a small light shown from Toboe Ali Fort. The former would guide through from either end of the channel, and a bearing of the fort light lead clear of the banks.

THE SUMMER PALACE OF THE CHINESE EMPERORS.

The following extract from Lord Elgin's recent despatches and the remarks following it, will always command so much interest, that we consider it most desirable to preserve them.

The destruction of the Yuen-Ming-Yuen Palace, coupled with the exaction, as a step preliminary to negotiations, and in name of compensation to the sufferers, of such a sum of money as could be raised on the spot by the government, seemed to me to be the only combination which fulfilled all these conditions. I had also at one time resolved to require that a monument should be erected at the expense of the Chinese government, stating the circumstances of the arrest and murder of the British subjects illegally captured, who had died from the effects of their ill-treatment in prison, and the penalty which had been inflicted for the deed; but this proposal I finally abandoned for reasons which I have explained elsewhere.

As the destruction of Yuen-Ming-Yuen is, however, an act to which exception may, with great apparent reason, be taken, it is my duty.