October 2nd or 3rd-8th or 9th-15th-23rd-30th December 2nd-9th-16th-23rd-30th. N.B.-September 4th to 7th, October 2nd to 5th, November 2nd to 6th, December 1st to 3rd, are likely to be periods of more than usual disturbance. I have, &c., S. M. SAXBY, R.N. To the Editor of the Nautical Magazine. A VISIT TO THE CEDARS OF LEBANON. Friday, June 1st-This morning we bade adieu to the plain of Bukâ 'a, or Cœlo Syria, and began our ascent of Lebanon. Our guide was an old man, whose life had been saved by Mr. Graham, About two years ago, war having broken out in the mountain somewhat earlier than usual, Toanna (the guide) found himself in a hostile village, the inhabitants of which were much exasperated against his tribe, Of course the unfortunate man was seized, and would speedily have fallen a victim to the popular fury but for the resolute conduct of Mr. Graham, who, at the risk of his own life, and by payment of a considerable sum for blood money, succeeded in saving that of the poor old man. Toanna hastened last night to see his preserver, and it was touching to hear his expressions of gratitude, tears streaming down his face as he kissed our friend's hand. Our way led through a rocky glen, the sides covered with hawthorn and dwarf prickly oak. The main ridge was not visible. After various short ascents and descents, we arrived at Ain Ata, a little village with a remarkably cold spring. From hence we descended a rocky path into the ravine separating the ridge of lower hills over which we had passed from the Lebanon itself; crossed a pretty brook, fed by the melting snow (the infant Leontes), and commenced in good earnest the ascent of the central range. At the foot of the pass we met the only group of armed men whose appearance and behaviour caused us real uneasiness. Hitherto we had always been greeted with respect by the Maronites, and with warm-one might almost say affectionate-enthusiasm by the Druses; but the party we now met " gazed upon us with ungentle looks," made observations in a loud voice, greeted us with shouts of laughter, and seemed to have some intention of barring our progress. Had all our party been together we should have been a match for them; but our people had loitered behind, and even Ayoub was not, as usual, striding on in front. However, the hand, which consisted of some ten or twelve well armed men, seemed to think better of it. They did not molest us, but their countenances were so little inviting that we were very glad when their picturesque figures diminished in the distance and finally disappeared, as each turn in the rapid zigzag diminished the objects in the valley below. The ascent is steep, but by no means difficult, although the sides of the mountains are precipitous enough to turn the heads of those unaccustomed to mountain climbing. The hill sides are large, smooth, round shoulders, descending without interruption to the valley be neath, and covered with a kind of dry slippery moss. Yomas, the Nubian groom, in trying to take a short cut, displaced some stones, which rolled down and down till they came to the bottom, meeting nothing to stop their progress; and such would most likely have been the fate of any who had had the bad luck to make a false step, there being neither bush nor hollow to afford a chance of checking the de scent. The zigzag was, however, very well managed, and the horses climbed like cats. In mounting, we caught occasional glimpses of the exquisite little Lake Lemone, of the most brilliant sapphire blue, em bosomed in hills on a plateau near one of the lower ridges. We saw quantities of wild rhubarb and gathered some sticks; it was quite as red and as good as that grown in English gardens. After a ride of an hour and a half from Ain Ata, we arrived at the snow. Large patches were lying in the hollows, and shortly before reaching the top of the pass we crossed a considerable field of snow and ice. Towards the West side it was still more abundant, long white lines intersecting the mountain sides. 1 We were now at a great elevation, between 7,000 and 8,000 feet above the sea. Jebel Mukhsnel, on our right, is the most lofty mountain of the range: its height is about the same as that of Etna,—between 10,000 and 11,000 feet. Hermon is about 9,000 feet. The view from this point was very grand. On one side we saw the vast plain of Cœlo Syria, bounded by the Anti-Lebanon and Hermon ; while on the other, the Mediterranean was so far below that it was lost in a mass of clouds and vapour. A little dark clump of fir trees, a thousand feet beneath us, was pointed out as the far famed cedars, and we could not conceal our disappointment that such a mere patch, not even a wood, should be the trees renowned for their size even în the time of David. It was curious to see the masses of clouds float. ing along the mountain-sides, while beneath them hill rose above hill, range above range in glorious confusion. We could just distinguish some long green valleys, softening the ruggedness of their dark brown sides, and becoming more numerous and smiling as they descended to a more genial climate. A party of travellers, consisting of a father. mother, and daughter, natives of a village a few miles from hence, had accompanied us up the mountain; they had walked from Damascus, and, having been ten days on their journey, looked, poor creatures, tired and foot-sore. The girl was very pretty, and far more German than Syrian in her appearance; she had a round, fair, Saxon face, light curly hair, and large blue eyes, to which the circle of Kohl gave great softness and expression. They had wisely timed their arrival at the top of the mountain, and, halting when we halted, came in for a part of our luncheon. Although amidst fields of snow, the heat of the sun was so great that it seemed wonderful anything that could melt was able to resist its power. The descent was even more rapid than the ascent, but we had not far to go, as we meant to spend the night at the cedars. From their position, the trees are not seen again until the foot of the knoll is reached on which they stand, but it is impossible fully to appreciate their beauty until fairly beneath the shadow of their branches. The outer trees are all comparatively small, the hoary giants standing within, encircled by their smaller brethren. In order thoroughly to enjoy the repose and loveliness of the spot, the traveller should arrive, as we did, tired and fatigued by a hot sun, and feel that the day's journey is really over. It was delightful to know that we had nothing to do but to throw ourselves under one of the huge cedars, whose branches were creaking and sighing in the gentle wind, and enjoy the luxurious rest afforded by the warm earth, perfumed and soft with cedar-spines. The music from a thousand birds came from every part of the grove, and a glorious sunset was pouring its flood of crimson and gold upon the dark trees. As the sun slowly set, a few stars showed their silver light above the mountain tops. Although the sea itself could not be distinguished, a band of lurid copper coloured light stretching along the horizon marked where lay the Mediterranean. It was a reflection of the ocean, and the consciousness of how hot it must be on its shore, made us enjoy still more the fresh coolness of our evening here. Long after the sun had set, the rosy glow still lingered; long after the moon had risen and the night had fully come, a pale pink vapour still floated in the sky. It was in curious contrast with the scene on the other side; there, we were hemmed in by the frowning barren mountains, and the moonlight falling on the long streaks of snow, gave them a livid unearthly pallor, that cast into still deeper gloom the dark hollows and recesses in their rugged sides. Though other parts of this glorious chain might be convulsed with the horrors of war, pillage, and massacre, so quiet and tranquil were the Cedars in the calm moonlight, that it was difficult to realize the sad fact that turmoil and death were raging near. Saturday, June 2nd.-The perfect repose and quiet that may be enjoyed here add another charm to the beauty of the spot. The villages are all at a considerable distance down the mountain, Some of the villagers came up last night to help and to stare; this morning they are at work in the fields, and there is no sound to disturb the calm but the song of the birds and a peculiar sighing of the wind. One can never weary in looking at the trees, these giants of the forest. There remain only thirteen of the very largest; but notwithstanding the great age of these patriarchs, they are flourishing and healthy; one or two of the oldest are upwards of forty feet in circumference, and many of the branches would themselves be grand trees The grove consists of about four hundred cedars. There is but one young one, an infant of forty years old, and he is stunted and ill-grown for his age. Numbers of little cedars spring up every year from the cones, but they are always eaten by the goats. A magnificent tree, one of the largest, had fallen a victim to some winter storm; it was grievous to see it lying low, its glory levelled to the dust and its beautiful wood rotting unheeded on the ground. Some of it has been used for a small chapel, which stands in the centre of the grove; and unfortunately the people from the neighbouring villages, when they come up in the autumn for the Feast of Cedars, are in the habit of tearing down and burning the branches. My sister and I sat working under the trees, while our companions read us the account of the building of the Temple of Jerusalem. "And Solomon sent to Hiram, King of Tyre, saying, Now therefore command that they hew me cedar-trees out of Lebanon.' So Hiram gave Solomon cedar-trees and fir-trees according to all his desire." A verse which follows gives an idea of how extensive the Lebanon forests must have been in those days:—“ And King Solomon raised a levy out of all Israel, and the levy was thirty thousand men; and he sent them to Lebanon, ten thousand a month, by courses; a month they were in Lebanon and two months at home; and Solomon had three score and ten thousand that bare burdens, and four score thousand hewers in the mountain." For twenty years these mountains resounded with the noise of the tools of the workmen preparing the cedars for the Lord's Temple and Solomon's House. All was fashioned here, “so that there was neither hammer, nor axe, nor any tool of iron heard in the house while it was building." This spot is remarkably well suited for an encampment, and as we rode up yesterday, we were quite charmed with the picturesque beauty of the scene. Our numerous tents were scattered here and there among the trees, while in a little hollow our cook had established his fire, which sent up a thin cloud of blue smoke among the branches. The cook himself, in white cap and jacket, moved among his saucepans and kettles with an air of a cordon blue presiding over a grand dinner in Paris, rather than preparing a supper for hungry travellers in Syria. The tired muleteers had thrown themselves on the ground near the little fire, smoking, and drinking coffee, all fatigued with the long day's march, except the indefatigable Ayoub, on whom no amount of walking seems to produce the least effect. With a long swinging step he passes over the ground, his square but elastic figure and sturdy legs defying hill and valley, rough or smooth road. He and Hassein were telling stories for the amusement of the company in general, and had great success, to judge from the shouts of laughter which greeted them. Soon after dark the mules went down to water, as there is no spring up here, and it was pretty and pleasant to see the long dusky train winding down the hill, and to hear the tinkling of their bells. During the night all the animals were allowed to roam about except poor "Nisik," who was far too precocious to enjoy such liberty. Nisik was a fine Arab, bought by Mr. Graham during our stay at Damascus, and being a very spirited animal it was deemed advisable to tether him in desert fashion. It is impossible to conceive a more complete imprisonment; three of his legs were fastened together with leathern straps to prevent his kicking, and a rope on each side of his head checked any demonstrations of violence in that quarter. While we were resting under the trees, two travellers, a Frenchman and a Russian, arrived; they had crossed the mountain this morning, and as they were to sleep at Eh' den, could only pay the usual traveller's visit of an hour to the Cedars. They very much regretted this when they found how comfortably we were established; they also had wished to pass the night here, but had been told by their dragoman that the place was subject to malaria. This is quite a mistake, as no spot can be more thoroughly healthy. The truth is, water has to be brought from some little distance, and as most travellers are entirely at the mercy of their dragoman, it not unfrequently happens that very interesting spots are passed unseen, or receive only a hurried visit, to suit the convenience of these people. However, it is but fair to say that these remarks do not apply to Ibrahim Amatori, who throughout our journey was most civil, obliging, and anxious to please; he supplied us with many comforts for which we had not stipulated in our original agreement; tea, coffee, dinner, or supper, were always to be had, even at unreasonable hours. The tents were large, perfectly. clean, and whatever might have been the trouble or fatigue of the day's march or whatever the little contre temps which must occur in so long a journey, he was never cross nor put out, and took care that everything should be ready for us on our arrival in the evening. Before leaving, we walked all round the Cedars, visiting every great tree, and feeling loth to quit so enchanting a spot. Connected as they are with Holy Writ, these trees possess a sacred character, enhanced by their own magnificence and the sense of solemn repose with which they are invested: it is therefore painful to see the number of names which have been idly scored on venerable trunks, and it cannot but be regretted that such men as Chateaubriand and Lamartine should have condescended to sanction by their illustrious names so injurious a practice.Our Cruize in the "Claymore." On the "Cedars of Lebanon" we may add to the foregoing that a party of scientific gentlemen, of whom the Hydrographer to the Admiralty, Captain Washington, R.N., was one, visited them in the summer of last year, and we find the following brief notice of them in the address of the President of the Geographical Society just distributed. This remarkable group of trees, not exceeding three quarters of a mile in circuit, stands on an elevated plateau, at the head of the Wady Kadisha, and forms the centre of a semicircular basin or recess in the Lebanon from six to eight miles in diameter, at an elevation of 6,400 feet. It is all but encircled by a wall of barren grey limestone mountains, rising some 3,000 feet above the plain. The cedars standNO. 9.-VOL. XXX. 3 s |