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II. DRUMMOND CASTLE

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Drawn by J. M. Gleeson. Half-tone plate engraved by H. Davidson DRUMMOND CASTLE AND DEER PARK

LXVI.-99

miles from the pretty town of Crieff, and eighteen miles from Perth. The estate is enormous even for Scotland, consisting of about seventy-five thousand acres, embracing some of the finest scenery in Scotland, including the far-famed Trossachs. Between five and six hundred acres, surrounding the castle, are inclosed by a strong and peculiar-looking stone wall, and form the deer park proper. The history of the castle takes us back to the middle of the eleventh century, when one Mauritz, or Maurice, a Hungarian who was said to be a nephew of the King of Hungary, had command of the ship on which the mother and sisters of Edgar Ætheling were escaping from the Norman usurper. The vessel was driven by a terrific storm into the Firth of Forth, and was saved only by the skill and bravery of Maurice. The reigning monarch fell in love with and married one of the sisters, and for his services rewarded Maurice with the splendid stretch of country forming the Drummond estate.

The situation of the castle is superb: perched on a huge rock in the center of a rolling and most beautifully wooded country, and overlooking a wide stretch of lovely and diversified scenery, the dark Grampian Hills on one side, on the other,

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Thurlum, the highest hill in the neighborhood, lifting its forest-covered crest to the clouds. Below the castle is a lovely lake, the home of innumerable water-fowl. After many and terrible vicissitudes the castle

of the walls are all that remain of the original castle. The present home of Lord Ancaster was built only a few years ago, in the style of a French château.

The castle is approached by a mile-long avenue of grand trees; cattle and fallow deer graze on each hand, and the sweet, weird notes of the pibroch is borne to one's ears; for the castle keeps its own piper, and one soon secs him walking up and down on the terrace beneath the castle walls, clad in full Highland dress, and practising the family pibrochs. I afterward became acquainted with him, and never tired of listening to his wonderful performance. To my mind, in the proper milieu, there is no other music half so touching.

Arriving at the castle, one enters at the ancient stone gate

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way and comes into the fine courtyard, circular in form. The large paving-stones are laid in circles, and in the center stands a stone column supporting an ancient torch or brazier. On one side is the strong square tower now used as a museum, very interesting for its splendid collection of armor and family portraits. From the courtyard we descended into the garden, one of the wonders of Scotland. This truly enormous piece of work was begun in the seventeenth century by the second Earl of Perth, and has been kept up with greatest care and skill to the present day.

Yet, wonderful as it is in its artificial beauty, I left it without regret to wander through the lovely natural scenery of the park. As I approached the brow of the hill my ear caught a strange, harsh, unusual sound, which I could in no way make out until, arriving at the top, I saw that it came from the hoarse grunting of the herd of fallow deer. It is difficult to connect so harsh and grating a sound with an animal in all respects so pretty and

CURIOUS WALL INCLOSING DRUMMOND CASTLE PARK

was almost completely destroyed by Cromwell, and finally was razed to the ground in the rebellion of 1745. A square tower, the ancient guard-room and court, and part

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dainty. At times the entire herd grunt in unison, and if heard before the animals are in sight, the effect is somewhat foreboding. When the herd is startled by an approaching object, the stags, after watching with great intentness for a few moments, toss their heads up and down in a threatening manner, and wheeling suddenly, dash wildly round and round the herd, as though rounding them up; then all make off, the fawns having no difficulty in keeping up with the rest.

A mile back from the castle, on the wooded heights of Thurlum, graze flocks of perfectly wild red deer, and no finer sight can be imagined than to come upon a bunch of stags. They dash away, bounding over the rocks and fallen trees, and

before passing over the brow of the hill, stand to look back, their splendid forms silhouetted against the sky, their every attitude indicative of strength and keen wariness, as unlike the poor jaded specimen of a zoological collection as one can possibly imagine.

Here also I saw the splendid capercaillie, largest of European game-birds. The golden eagle makes his home on these lofty heights, while down on the other side, in the dense pine forests, dwell the timid roe deer. Continuing in a westerly direction, we came to the wild mountain country where lies Glenartney. Here Lord Ancaster has his hunting seat, and here also may be seen herds of Highland cattle in their proper environment.

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THE DESTRUCTION OF PHILÆ

BY ALONZO CLARK ROBINSON

WITH PICTURES FROM PHOTOGRAPHS

No rays from the holy heaven come down
On the long night-time of that town;
But light from out the lurid sea
Streams up the turrets silently-
Gleams up the pinnacles far and free-
Up domes-up spires-up kingly halls-
Up fanes-up Babylon-like walls-
Up shadowy long-forgotten bowers
Of sculptured ivy and stone flowers-
Up many and many a marvelous shrine
Whose wreathèd friezes intertwine
The viol, the violet, and the vine.

is now a lake where stood the two villages of Shellall and el-Monhata, and of the island of Philæ only a portion of the more lofty edifices struggle, like some overwrought swimmer, to maintain their heads above the destroying flood.

A few months ago the island of Philæ was held by lovers of Egyptian antiquities to be the gem of the collection, the jewel in the cap of that mighty river the waters of which flow past so many beautiful and absorbing piles. The temple of Rameses. III at Thebes is more imposing, Karnak ENEATH the brilliant blue sky and per- is larger, the Pyramids are older, the deco

"The City in the Sea."

going forward, murder is being done. It is a sad spectacle, but, like all sad spectacles, interesting.

On the 10th of December, 1902, the Duchess of Connaught laid the stone which completed the great dam at Assuan; Abbas Hilmi Pasha, Khedive of Egypt, pressed the spring which raised the first gate, and in so doing consecrated to destruction the "Pearl of Egypt," the fairy island of Philæ.

The world has rung with the praises of those who conceived and executed the "Great Barrage," the largest dam on the globe; scientific and enlightened Europe has held up its hands in admiration; Egypt expects to derive an increase in revenue of two million six hundred thousand pounds per annum and one third her present arable land. But there is another side to the picture. Thousands of people have been driven from their homes and forced to watch from a safe eminence their little mud huts, their fig- and date-trees, their all, whether of livelihood or association, disappear beneath the waters of the river which they were wont to worship. There

Abydos are more varied and numerous, the pillars of Dendera excel in height and majesty; but Phila was the most beautiful, the most loved. A diminutive isle five hundred yards long by one hundred and sixty broad, rising gracefully out of the clear, smooth water which surrounded it, and surmounted by its temples and kiosk, it possessed a beauty and uniqueness which was irresistible, and fastened upon it the appellation of the "Pearl of Egypt."

The present name of Philæ is Greek, and derived from the ancient Egyptian, Pi-lak, or island of Lak. The earliest mention of it occurs in 350 B.C., in the reign of Nektanebas, a king of the thirtieth dynasty. The oldest buildings upon the island belong to the work of this powerful monarch, but there is little doubt that at one time it was adorned with temples of a much earlier period.

The chief deity was Isis, the goddess of the cultivated land; but her husbandbrother Osiris, god of the Nile, and several others, including Khnum and Saleb, the gods of the cataract, were also worshiped in various minor sanctuaries. The

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THE ISLAND OF PHILE AS IT APPEARED FOR NEARLY THREE THOUSAND YEARS

inform us, to do reverence to the mystical and healing goddess whose sanctuary it was. Even after all Egypt had been Christianized, the worship of Isis was still continued in Nubia, and it was not until the reign of Justinian that the temples were closed. Later the Coptics used portions of them for their services, and finally, when the banners of Islam swept across the length and breadth of the land, the Arabs made of Philæ a palace. But the spirit of destruction which seems to have possessed Christian and Mohammedan alike, as is evidenced in the mutilation of many of the temples of Egypt, was here restrained by the beauties of the island, and Philæ suffered little at their hands.

Of the various buildings which adorned

a novel and interesting experience, but to those who were familiar with the island in all its beauty it is full of sadness. Of the columns which formed the colonnade only the capitals remain above water. Upon these one sees, beautifully chiseled and ornamented with delicate coloring, Tiberius offering gifts to the gods or Nero presenting two eyes to Isis.

A short distance to the right, the roof of the kiosk is visible, resting upon its exquisite columns, which are partly submerged. By it two unusually large palm-trees rear their heads above the inundation.

The temple of Isis being situated upon a rise of ground, a considerable portion of it remains out of water. It is still possible to walk upon the pavement of the hypo

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