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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
PERSONAL.
Modern travel-Influence of the Himalaya,
CHAPTER II.
BOMBAY TO ALLAHABAD.
Indian travel-Bombay-Western Ghauts-Parallelism between the
Ghauts and Himálaya-Tápti valley-Sátpúra and Yindhya ranges
-Narbada valley-Jabalpúr-The Marble Rocks-Scene by moon-
light-Allahabad,
PAGE
1
5
CHAPTER III.
HIMALAYAN PEAKS AND SANITARIUMS.
Agra and Delhi-The Indian Mutiny-Dárjiling-Mount Everest-
Kanchinjanga-Sikkim-Nepal-Naini Tal-Almora-Ranikhet-
Masúri Dharamsala - Dalhousie - Marri - The Hindú Kúsh-
Simla,
16
CHAPTER IV.
RÚRKI, HARDWAR, AND THE Terai.
Sahárunpur collections - Dr Jamieson - Major Lang-Losing one's
head-Rúrki Engineering College-Hardwar―The Great Mela-
Jungle fires-The Terai-A Himálayan hunter-Mr Hayward-
Fossils of the Sewalik-The Dehra Doon-Indian tea-Localities
of the plantations,
25
CHAPTER V.
FIRST VIEWS OF THE HIMÁLAYA.
Goître-Masúri-Climate-Interior routes-View of snowy peaks-
The Abode of the Gods-Road to Simla-Appearance of Simla—
Lines on the Himalaya,
CHAPTER VI.
SIMLA SOCIETY.
Simla misunderstood-Amusements-Morals-Overwork-Convenience
of position-Indian society,
Lord Northbrook-The Bengal Famine-General policy-Umbra Indica
-Sir Richard Temple-Sir William Muir-Lord Napier of Mag-
dala-Colonel Dillon-Mr C. U. Aitchison-Mr Chapman, &c.,
CHAPTER VIII.
SIMLA AS A SANITARIUM.
Commencement of Simla-Lord Dalhousie-Population-Advantages
and defects of the climate-A starting-point for the Himalaya—
"No supplies"-Central Asian routes from Simla,
CHAPTER IX.
MY HIMALAYAN OUTFIT.
Tents-Lord Napier's tent-Furniture-Supplies on the way-Game
-No eggs-Baltistan apricots-Preserved provisions-Potables-
Stimulants unnecessary - Servants - My attendants-Means of
carriage,
CHAPTER X.
SIMLA TO THE SUTLEJ.
The Great Hindústhan and Tibet Road-Fatal accidents-Feelings on
going over a precipice-The dandi-Bumping-Divisions of the
road-View from Narkanda-Kotgarh and its Mission-Colonel
Moore-The gloomy Sutlej valley,
40
50
60
80
86
99
CHAPTER XI.
KOTGARH TO CHINI.
The Rajah of Bussahir-Death of a hillman-Scenery of the Sutlej
Valley-Sentient nature of plants-Himálayan pines-The Deodar
-Chini-View of the Raldang Kailas,
CHAPTER XII.
A HARD ROAD TO TRAVEL.
End of the cut road-The Morang Kailas-Rarang-Foam-cascades-
Granite avalanches-Turning a corner-Jangi-A praying mill-
Lippe-Author's illness-Poisoning in India,
Height of the pass-The yak or ox of Tibet-Its grunting-A'yak's
saddle-Ksomo de Körös-Tibetan grammars and dictionaries—
Summit of the Pass-Suffering of the dandiwallahs,
CHAPTER XIV.
SLATE PRECIPICES.
Súgnam-Shaso-The Chokra-The boy Nurdass-Shaso to Pú-The
worst path in Bussahir-The gorge of the Sutlej - Schwester
Pagell,
CHAPTER XV.
THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW OF DEATH.
Companions in my illness-Sand-flies-Scorpions-Serpents-Tibetan
109
117
126
135
Ground too dear for
143
CHAPTER XVI.
JUNCTION OF THE SUTLEJ AND SPITI RIVERS.
The Moravian Mission-The people of Pú-Start for Chinese Tibet-
Dabling and Dúbling-Sang-po and Sang-pa-Mural precipices—
Khalb-Extraordinary junction of the Lee and Spiti rivers-Geo-
logy-Himalayan valleys-Cataclysms-Names for rivers,
151