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FIGURES 85 G AND 86 G.

FIGURE 85 G (PAGE 309).-LADIES' WAIST: representing pattern 6240, price 9d. or 20 cents; 8 sizes, 30 to 44 inches, bust measure; shown also on page 333.

Black taffeta is effectively combined with white insertion faggoted with black twist in this bodice. A round yoke forms the upper part of the waist, and the fulness in front puffs out modishly over a ribbon belt. A centre-back closing is provided, and a straight collar of the faggoting finishes the neck. The sleeves are of the blouse order and droop modishly over straight bands.

A pretty waist would be of pale-blue Louisine, with a yoke of point Venise or Irish lace. Medallions of

the lace might be introduced in the front and sleeve

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senting pattern 6252, price 1s. or 25 cents; 9 sizes, 30 to 46 inches, bust measure; shown also on page 327.

The tea-gown in Empire or "Reform" style is one of the prettiest of negligées. A dainty garment of this order is here shown made of light India silk and white lace, with ruffles of the material, ribbon and lace band for trimming. The body is short, in Empire style, rounded upward at the centre of the front and back. The skirt portion is circular at the back, where it is seamed, and a closing is made in front. A flat collar follows the outline of the pointed neck. Sleeves finished with graduated, gathered frills are a pretty feature, but a plainer effect may be obtained by employing regulation bishop sleeves with a band finish. A circular flounce adds to

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puff out prettily. Lengthwise tucks are taken up in the back, and a belt defines the sloping line of the waist. A deep collar that may be rounded or pointed at the back finishes the neck, and a tie in bat-wing style is a pleasing addition. Strap-bands confine the blouse sleeves, which are equally suitable for elbow or full length.

White mohair will develop stylishly, with collar and strapbands of colored taffeta or velvet. Albatross, French flannel and wash silks and cotton fabrics may be used.

FIGURES 87 G AND 88 G.

FIGURE 87 G (PAGE 310).-LADIES' TEA-GOWN: repre

LADIES' TWO-PIECE COSTUME, WITH SLOT OR REGULAR SEAMS:
CONSISTING OF A BLOUSE ETON JACKET IN "GIBSON" STYLE.
WITH BISHOP OR FLOWING SLEEVES, AND WITH OR WITHOUT
THE COLLAR, PEPLUM OR JACKET SKIRT, AND A SEVEN-GORED
FLARE SKIRT, IN SWEEP OR ROUND LENGTH, AND WITH AN
INVERTED BOX-PLAIT AT THE BACK.
(Described on Page 332.)

the flare at the foot, and a fluffy effect is obtained by the addition of narrow bias ruffles. Sweep or short sweep length may be employed, and the pattern also provides for a highnecked finish.

Pale-blue albatross will be dainty with accessories of white net over blue satin. White or blue ribbon may be introduced. Dull-pink cashmere will combine effectively with yellow lace and black velvet ribbon. A more elaborate effect may be had by using stamped velvet in connection with heavy lace. Peau de cygne, foulard, cashmere and all soft, yielding fabrics are much in favor for tea-gowns.

FIGURE 88 G (PAGE 310).-LADIES' SHIRT-BLOUSE AND SKIRT: representing Shirt-blouse pattern 6061, price 9d. or

20 cents; 7 sizes, 30 to 42 inches, bust measure; and Skirt pattern 6134, price 1s. or 25 cents; 8 sizes, 20 to 34 inches, waist measure.

Metallic-blue voile and velvet ribbon in a darker shade give an attractive development in this gown, faggoting and yellow lace being introduced as trimming. Circular shaping characterizes the skirt, which has a habit back closed with buttons and buttonholes or with a placket-andseam. A circular flounce tucked along its centre and joined on under a simulated tuck lengthens the mode. A sweep is provided for in the skirt, which is known as the du Barry, and the lower edge is finished with a hem that gives the effect of a tuck.

A removable chemisette of white ribbon faggoted together is a smart item of this shirt-blouse, which is of "Gibson" shaping. Plaits extending to the waist-line both back and front emphasize the

broad-shouldered effect, and the closing is arranged a little to the left of the front. The back is smooth, and a straight collar tops the chemisette. Two-seam bishop sleeves droop over bands, but, if preferred, they may be cut off in elbow length and allowed to fall free. A'crush belt is a becoming adjunct. This gown would be very effective made up in white mohair with stitched folds of taffeta. A chemisette of Irish

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LADIES' EMPIRE OR "REFORM" COSTUME: CONSISTING OF A REMOVABLE ETON JACKET AND A SURPLICE WAIST OR BODICE, WITH OR WITHOUT A CHEMISETTE; AND A FIVEGORED FLARE SKIRT, WITH LONG OR SHORT SWEEP OR IN ROUND LENGTH.

(Described on Page 333.)

crochet lace will give a distinctive touch. Etamine, hopsacking, wool crash, Pompadour and the exquisite Dolly Varden silks and the various dress materials are advised.

FIGURES 89 G AND 90 G.

FIGURE 89 G (PAGE 311).-LADIES' SHIRT-BLOUSE AND SKIRT: representing Shirt-blouse pattern 6177, price 9d. or 20 cents; 8 sizes, 30 to 44 inches, bust measure; and Skirt pattern 6241, price 1s. or 25 cents; 9 sizes, 20 to 36 inches, waist measure; shown also on page 339.

Tucks are still popular as a decoration, and a stylish portrayal is given in this gown of réséda-green cloth with velvet

and lace as additional trimming. The waist is a chic mode known as the Monte Carlo shirt-blouse and is tucked in front at each side of the Duchess closing. A flat collar with strap. having crossed ends outlines the chemisette, which is topped by a standing collar. The back of the waist is also tucked, and a tapering effect is given the figure by drawing the tucks close together at the waist-line. Band cuffs finish the bishop sleeves, and a strap-belt with crossed ends is worn.

The front-gore of the skirt is tucked in panel or "Gibson" effect, and the graduated, circular flounce lengthening the back and sides is also outlined with tucks. A habit back is a smart feature, and the skirt, which is of threepiece shaping, has a long sweep and is made over a fivegored foundation.

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Especially effective would be metallic-blue voile, with an introduction of Austrian crochet lace. Veiling would produce a pretty gown, with faggoting. Such fabrics as étamine, crêpes in silk and wool, foulard, mohair and dress materials in general are appropriate.

FIGURE 90 G (PAGE 311).-LADIES' WAIST AND SKIRT: representing waist pattern 6156, price 9d. or 20 cents; 7 sizes, 30 to 42 inches, bust measure; and skirt pattern 6182, price 1s. or 25 cents; 7 sizes, 20 to 32 inches, waist measure.

Faggoting and appliqués of heavy white lace were used in trimming this gown of beige veiling and silk of a lighter shade. A deep hipyoke is a smart feature of the skirt, which is five-gored and has tuck plaits in graduated flounce depth at the sides and back, the termination of the tucks at each side of the front giving the effect of a panel. A foundation, also shaped by five gores, supports the skirt, which is appropriate for sweep or short sweep length.

The bodice is one of the "buttoned-in-the-back" styles so popular. It has groups of tucks both in the front and back, and a deep, sectional yoke outlined by a bertha gives a distinctive touch. A high collar finishes the neck, and the sleeves droop over deep cuffs. A crush belt follows the sloping line of the waist. The pattern provides for the neck to be in Dutch square outline.

French voile in one of the castor shades would make up stylishly in this gown, with bands of stitched

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FIGURE 91 G (PAGE 312).--LADIES' JACKET AND SKIRT: representing jacket pattern 6164, price 9d. or 20 cents; 7 sizes, 30 to 42 inches, bust measure; and skirt pattern, 6107, price 1s. or 25 cents; 8 sizes, 20 to 34 inches, waist measure. A smart new Eton of blouse shaping forms a part of this attractive suit. It is made up in stone-gray homespun, with collar and cuffs of darker velvet, elaborated with machinestitching in the same shade. The jacket gives a softly pouched effect in front and introduces slot seams stitched at each side

and having velvet stays A peplum forming a rounding tab at the back lengthens the jacket, a belt concealing its joining. A shawl collar is a stylish addition, and it may be rolled to the waist or only to the bust, as in this instance. The sleeves are gathered at the lower part and rolled to form cuffs. Slot seams are also a feature of the skirt, which is fivegored and has velvet inserted at the seams to correspond with the jacket. At the back the fulness is regulated in an underfolded box-plait, and the mode, which is suitable for a long or short sweep, is made over a foundation of five-gored shaping. Material matching that in the jacket was used for the skirt. Dove-gray étamine over a foundation of taffeta would be very pretty, with panne in the same shade for relief. Serge,

outline completes the open neck, and the flowing sleeves are tucked to the elbow. The mode, which is known as the du Barry negligé, may have a high neck finished with a Shakspere collar, as well as fancy bishop sleeves, provision being made in the pattern for both. The hem is finished with feather-stitching.

Figured blue-and-white foulard was chosen for making the five-gored skirt, ribbon applied in fancy design affording garniture. Three, graduated, circular flounces that terminate at the side-front seams add a distinctive touch to the mode, which is in sweep length and displays a habit back. A hip yoke is included in the pattern.

Cloth, serge, cheviot, homespun, broadcloth, as well as silks and the many dress materials are in order for the skirt, while the dressing-sack will be pretty developed in such materials as foulard, lawn, dimity and silks.

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FIGURES 93G AND 94 G.

FIGURE 93 G (PAGE 313).-LADIES' WAIST AND SKIRT: representing waist pattern 6169, price 9d. or 20 cents; 7 sizes, 30 to 42 inches, bust measure; and Skirt pattern 6243, price 1s. or 25 cents; 9 sizes, 20 to 36 inches, waist measure; shown also on page 342. A chic bolero box-plaited in front to give the effect of one of the new jackets is a smart feature of this gown, for the development of which biscuitcolored étamine was chosen,

LADIES' COSTUME, WITH REGULAR OR SLOT SEAMS, AND IN SWEEP OR ROUND LENGTH: CONSISTING OF A JACKET WAIST OR BODICE, WITH A FULL VEST WITH DUCHESS CLOSING AND HAVING A LINING REGULATED BY LACINGS IN THE DARTS AND CENTRE-FRONT; AND A SEVEN-GORED FLARE SKIRT, WITH AN EXTENSION AT THE TOP FOR LENGTHENING THE FRONT AND SIDES, AND HAVING AN INVERTED BOX-PLAIT OR GATHERS AT THE BACK AND WITH OR WITHOUT A CIRCULAR FLOUNCE FROM BENEATH WHICH THE SKIRT SHOULD BE CUT AWAY. (DESIRABLE FOR MATERNITY OR INVALID WEAR.) (Described on Page 334.)

cheviot, broadcloth, crêpe cloths, tailor suitings and granite cloth are also in favor, and silk is generally used for lining.

FIGURE 92 G (PAGE 312).-LADIES' DRESSING-SACK AND SKIRT: representing dressing-sack pattern 6245, price 9d. or 20 cents; 9 sizes, 30 to 46 inches, bust measure; shown also on page 337; and skirt pattern 6146, price 1s. or 25 cents; 9 sizes, 20 to 36 inches, waist measure.

The Empire or "Reform " effect is carried out in this dressing-sack with tucks, white China silk being the material used in making the garment, decorated with lace edging, appliqué and velvet ribbon. The tucks are taken up to Empire body depth, the fulness below falling free. A collar in shawl

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with trimmings of Irish crochet lace. The bodice proper blouses softly between the bolero fronts and introduces an oddly shaped yoke. It is slightly gathered at the waist, and a belt and straight collar are added. The bolero has a smooth back and is finished with a shawl collar. Elbow sleeves slashed at the back of the arm fall over deep puffs finished with deep cuffs.

The skirt is a smart mode known as the mermaid skirt and has a habit back closing with buttons and buttonholes. It is of seven-gored shaping and fits closely to the knee below which it flares out in frou-frou effect, and a circular flounce from beneath which the skirt proper should be cut away may be added. Long and short sweep are provided, and

triple rows of machine-stitching give a neat finish. Royal-blue hop-sacking would be simple and in good taste, with embroidered batiste for the waist. Voile, mohair, veiling and dress materials in general are advised.

FIGURE 94 G (PAGE 313).-LADIES' WAIST AND SKIRT: representing Waist pattern 6253, price 9d. or 20 cents; 8 sizes, 32 to 46 inches, bust measure; shown also on page 334; and Skirt pattern 6060, price 1s. or 25 cents; 9 sizes, 20 to 36 inches, waist measure.

A novelty is introduced in this waist by combining the body and collar in one. Black tucked taffeta was the material selected, and the seams are joined by faggoting, over white taffeta, the seams on the shoulders being arranged in Raglan effect. A centre-front closing is made, and the garment is without fulness at the top. At the lower edge of the front gathers are taken up, giving the required blouse over the belt. The sleeves are oddly shaped and have drooping puffs at the lower part confined by band cuffs. A belt is worn.

A centre-front seam in line with the closing of the bodice is a feature of the skirt which is of circular shaping and is developed in plain black taffeta. At the back the fulness may be taken up in a box-plait or gathers, and the skirt is in sweep length only. Five, flat, circular flounces provided in the pattern are in this instance omitted, and inset strappings of white taffeta faggoted on supply the trimming.

Smooth cloth in one of the new green shades stitched in black would be effective in this gown. Ivorywhite mohair is fashionable and Limerick lace might be introduced for finishing touches. Wool canvas, Sicilian, veiling and other fabrics are recommended. The skirt is appropriate for development in plaided, striped or other fabrics.

figure in a development of black velvet with rows of stitching as a finish. The jacket is of the blouse Eton order and droops in front, the back being snugly adjusted. The fronts roll in stylish revers that are faced with brocaded satin, and a peplum joined on under a belt is a smart item. Twoseam coat sleeves are introduced, but they may be replaced by bishop sleeves with cuffs, and strap collars provided in the pattern are in this instance omitted.

Black moiré would be stylish combined with Irish lace, and a lining of white satin will add to the effect.

FIGURES 97 G, 98 G AND 99 G.

FIGURE 97 G (PAGE 315).-LADIES' SHIRT-WAIST: representing pattern 6249, price 9d. or 20 cents; 7 sizes,

30 to 42 inches, bust measure; shown also on page 336. A girlish air marks this shirtwaist which is developed in satin foulard bearing a pretty flowered design, edging, insertion and chiffon ruch

ing giving contrast. The fronts cross over in surplice fashion and may

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FIGURE 95 G (PAGE 314). LADIES' COAT: representing pattern 6248, price 9d. or 20 cents; 9 sizes, 30 to 46 inches, bust measure; shown also on page 333.

The jaunty covert coat has lost none of its popularity and is

one of the most serviceable of top garments. A chic mode is depicted at this figure in a development of tan covert cloth, stitching supplying the finish. It is snugly adjusted at the sides and back, while the fronts, which emphasize the new shaping, are closed in a fly. Above the closing lapels are introduced and meet the ends of the rolling collar. Turnback cuffs finish the regulation coat sleeves, and pockets inserted in the fronts give a smart finishing touch.

A practicable development of this coat would be in darkgray homespun, with a skirt of the same. Black cloth will give a stylish result, and a velvet collar adds to the effect.

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be tied at the back or side, while the neck is arranged in V effect. The back is plain save for slight gatherings at the waist

line. The elbow sleeve droops over a band of insertion and lace frills, but, if preferred, it may be extended to full length. An exceptionally dainty development of the mode would be in white wash silk, with Valenciennes edging and insertion. Surah, soft taffeta, cashmere, albatross and voile are recommended. Other pleasing developments, may be had in Swiss, lawn, dimity and silk gingham. For dressy wear blue silk mousseline will be pretty with inlet pieces of lace.

FIGURE 98 G (PAGE 315).-LADIES' WAIST: representing

pattern 6206, price 9d. or 20 cents; 9 sizes, 30 to 46 inches, bust measure; shown also on page 335.

All-over Chantilly net and peau de cygne in one of the café au lait tints gives good results in this smart bodice, and a band trimming of Oriental embroidery is introduced. A yoke-vest is a stylish feature, and the fronts are rounded away with pretty effect. At the lower edge gathers are displayed, and the back is topped by a pointed yoke. A straight collar finishes the neck, and the waist closes along the left shoulder and side. A scolloped postilion that deepens toward the back. adds to the style of the garment, its joining to the waist proper being concealed by a belt with crossed ends. Voluminous puffs drooping over cuff facings are a feature of the sleeves, which may, however, be cut off in elbow length and finished with graduated frills.

Cream silk voile with Irish lace will be dainty, and a touch of color can be introduced in the collar. Crêpe de Chine, foulard, satin Liberty, mohair and albatross are also in favor for bodices.

FIGURE 99 G (PAGE 315).-LADIES' WAIST: representing pattern 6202, price 9d. or 20 cents; 7 sizes, 30 to 42 inches, bust measure; shown also on page 335. Renaissance

lace and oyster-white chiffon combine well in this bodice, the desired touch of black being introduced in a drapery of chiffon around the shoulders. A deep yoke forms the upper part of the waist, the lower part blousing prettily between rounding bolero fronts. Gathers are ar

ranged at the waist-line of the back, and a crush belt is worn. Drooping puffs identify the sleeves, which are shaped at the top in drop style and fit smoothly below the elbow. Neck completion is afforded

in a straight

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centre of the back, while the fronts are rolled in oddly shaped A wide collar finishes the neck, and the flowing sleeves are shaped to reveal the bodice sleeves in puff effect. The bodice is tucked on the shoulders in front and at each side of the centre of the back. The fronts cross in surplice fashion and display a chemisette of tucked chiffon headed by a collar of the same elaborated with lace. The sleeves are of bishop shaping with shallow bands. Light-colored silk with lace trimming was selected for making the bodice. Joined to it is a five-gored skirt, which may have a long or short sweep or be cut off in round length. The back is without fulness, and the closing is effected at the left sidefront seam. Smooth-finished tan

cloth was chosen for making the jacket and skirt, with reliefs of , brown velvet and cream lace.

Steel-gray cheviot will make up well, and taffeta of the same hue may be used for the bodice. Black-and-white braid will give effective garniture. Lady's-cloth, serge, mohair and all the dress materials will readily adapt them

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LADIES' CAPE, IN MEDIUM OR SHORT THREE-QUARTER LENGTH, WITH SHOULDER DARTS AND A STANDING BAND OR MEDICI COLLAR, AND WITH OR WITHOUT A BELT, RUFFLE OR FLOUNCE. (Described on Page 334.)

collar. If intended for evening wear, the yoke may be omitted and the sleeves cut off in elbow length.

Coarse silk-knotted net would be smart for an evening bodice, with bolero fronts of heavy white Escurial lace. If a yoke be desired, it may be of the same lace.

FIGURE 100 G.

FIGURE 100 G (PAGE 316).-LADIES' COSTUME: representing pattern 6262, price 1s. or 25 cents; 7 sizes, 30 to 42 inches, bust measure; shown also on page 325.

Gowns of the "Reformation" or Empire period are receiving a considerable amount of attention at present, and a modern design combining an Eton jacket, and a skirt and bodice is here depicted. The jacket is short and has a seam at the

selves to this style, and the bodice is generally some soft finished stuff of the same or a prettily contrasting color.

FIGURE 101 G.

FIGURE 101 G (PAGE 317).-LADIES' SHIRT-BLOUSE AND SKIRT: representing Shirt-Blouse pattern 6263, price 9d. or 20 cents; 9 sizes, 30 to 46 inches, bust measure; shown also on page 337; and Skirt pattern 6260, price 1s. or 25 cents: 9 sizes, 20 to 36 inches, waist measure; shown also on page 340. A charming shirt-blouse is illustrated at this figure made of London-gray silk with velvet trimmings. fronts are gathered at the shoulder and neck edges and have the conventional box-plait at the centre. At the waistline the fulness may be gathered or drawn in by a belt, a graceful bouffant effect being the result. Slight gathers are

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