other vacant hours as I had, I employed in taking lessons in the French tongue from a firstrate French teacher, and in learning from a music-master to play on the flaute-douce; later in the evening I occasionally frequented the dancingschool. This I continued one whole year as I had proposed: the professors were, particularly at first, very painstaking, and the chamber of anatomy was that winter well supplied with a very great number of cadavera of both sexes, old and young, even of lying-in women, so that there was enough to practise on in all branches of anatomy; and, when anything particular occurred at the hospital of the Charité, we were permitted to be present.

"Among the extraordinary and remarkable things that took place in Berlin during my stay there, may be reckoned the following: "King George I. of Great Britain, who likewise was Elector of Hanover, having come to Germany that year, formed the resolution that he would come likewise to Berlin, to visit his son-in-law and daughter, the King and Queen of Prussia. On hearing that, these latter set about with all their might making such preparations as were necessary to receive with becoming respect this their august father and guest in their royal palace in Berlin. All economy was wholly put aside. The king hired twenty-four pages and forty lackeys, who were all clad in velvet and fine cloth of a dark blue colour, with red breeches most richly embroidered with gold lace.

Also, the splendid royal equipages which were still standing from the time of the king's father, the late magnificent Fredericus Primus, had to be brought out for a day and inspected; and, in truth, they were so rich and costly that I never afterwards saw their like, even in France. The royal gensd'armes had to be rigged out in new uniforms. A pretty considerable army was drawn together round Berlin to divert the King of England by their manœuvres. All the great nobles and their ladies were summoned to appear in handsome equipages. Some opera

written for, and others were set to work on decorations for the court festivities: all which was got ready before King George's arrival; so that the Prussian Court really looked very magnificent, and no longer like itself. And, indeed, it was very pleasant to see those two kings drive through Berlin in such a fine coach, and afterwards dine together along with the whole royal Prussian house. The King of Prussia conducted his father-in-law in like manner to the royal treasure-chamber. And there was, moreover, talk of a double marriage between the two kings, viz. between the Crown Prince of Prussia, his present Majesty, and the eldest princess of the Prince of Wales, as also between the eldest prince of this Prince of Wales and the Princess Royal of Prussia. But this august visit and all the grandeur lasted but a few days; for, as soon as the King of England was gone, the King of Prussia caused all the new liveries to be packed up in boxes, to be kept till they were again wanted, dismissed the new lackeys, and resumed his former economy. . . . . It was a strange and remarkable thing that the king had in his head at this time, viz. to people a piece of waste land in the province of Prussia. To this end he invited a number of the reformed from the Pfalz,1 who were suffering oppression from the Catholics in that country. They willingly accepted the offered conditions, and came to Brandenburg to be transported further. But, this not being sufficient, the king caused young country lads and girls of his own subjects to cast lots, that every tenth one should be sent to Prussia; and of these, too, there came, about the same time, between five and six hundred on their journey. When they arrived, the king

1 This emigration from the Palatinate, which Seidelin says he witnessed, must not be confounded with the later exodus from Salzburg, of which we have all read in Mr. Carlyle's book. Friedrich Wilhelm toiled for many years in getting inhabitants to that "piece of waste land." There were emigrations to Prussia from many parts of Germany, but I have never read elsewhere of one from the Palatinate, though the Polish Elector there

gave each of the girls permission to select her husband from among the young men ; and, as soon as any one was fixed on, he was married forthwith, the clergy having received orders to that effect, so that two hundred couples and upwards were married in the churches of Berlin in the course of two or three days. Some lads went to the altar pretty quietly, but others had wet eyes, and were as white as if they had been going to the scaffold; the women-folk looked all glad. But this kind of diversion had nearly gone too far; for there were two girls of Berlin who came to the king and offered to go to Prussia with the rest, on condition that they might have two young merchants whom they named; whereupon, to everybody's surprise, the king gave his consent, and forced these swains into this wedlock, probably with a promise of some special support. But at that all the respectable young men of Berlin got frightened, and I myself as much as any of them. At last, however, the whole party were sent forward to Prussia, and so the alarm was at an end.

"Before I left Berlin, I went out to Potsdam again, to see the big grenadiers on parade. Now just at the hour of parade the mail-coach happened to come in, and with it a travelling doctor from foreign parts, who, being as desirous as myself to see the big grenadiers, went straightway to the parade-ground. He was a decent-looking man, and wore a smart suit of blue clothes, with an elongated peruke, which, being in that place somewhat unusual, drew the king's eye, who at once came galloping down on the doctor, and asked him-'Who are you?' -'Please your Majesty,' said the doctor,

I am a doctor medicinæ, and I live in such-and-such a place.'-'What are you doing here?' said the king. Please your Majesty,' quoth he, I have but this moment arrived with the mail, and desired to take advantage of the opportunity to do myself the pleasure of seeing your Majesty's famous grenadiers.'What!' cried the king, what business have you with my grenadiers? Look you after your books and your patients!'

and with that His Majesty called a gend'arme and said, 'Take this fellow, and lead him straightway out of the town!'

Please your Majesty,' replied the doctor, I have done no harm, and mean to do none. I am departing in a few minutes with the mail, and beseech your Majesty but to grant me time to eat a morsel of food at the inn ere I go.' -'Hold your tongue!' cried the king, repeating his order; take him out of the town this instant, and bring me word when you have done it!'-Whereupon the soldier dragged the doctor away; but, when they had gone a bit, the doctor bribed the trooper to let him halt and get something to eat; after which he continued his journey with the coach. As I happened to be standing just behind him, I feared lest I should also fare like him; but the king rode away again; so I escaped,1 and had a good view of the parade, which I must confess was well worth the trouble of seeing, for the men were all like giants, their muskets were big in proportion, and the drill was splendid. After the parade I called on the biggest of the grenadiers, whose name was Jonas; he was a Norwegian, and, therefore, a countryman of my own; he showed me his gloves, which were so large that I could put my hand into every finger, and his shoes, which were more than half an ell (Danish) long. Even the bigger boys in Potsdam were fond of the diversion of running, at their full height, between Jonas's legs; but once, when he got tired of the sport, and a middling-sized boy was running between his legs in this fashion, Jonas suddenly struck his knees together, and hit the boy on the temples so that he fell down dead but Jonas was not punished. Notwithstanding his great height, his legs were crooked; on which account the king inquired of various physicians and surgeons whether they could not be broken and fastened together again so as to look straight. But whether

1 Seidelin was in no danger, for the king's wrath was doubtless excited solely by the wig. There are many stories of his attacks on wigs when they were larger than he approved of.

other vacant hours as I had, I employed in taking lessons in the French tongue from a firstrate French teacher, and in learning from a music-master to play on the flaute-douce; later in the evening I occasionally frequented the dancingschool. This I continued one whole year as I had proposed: the professors were, particularly at first, very painstaking, and the chamber of anatomy was that winter well supplied with a very great number of cadavera of both sexes, old and young, even of lying-in women, so that there was enough to practise on in all branches of anatomy; and, when anything particular occurred at the hospital of the Charité, we were permitted to be present.

"Among the extraordinary and remarkable things that took place in Berlin during my stay there, may be reckoned the following : — King George I. of Great Britain, who likewise was Elector of Hanover, having come to Germany that year, formed the resolution that he would come likewise to Berlin, to visit his son-in-law and daughter, the King and Queen of Prussia. hearing that, these latter set about with all their might making such preparations as were necessary to receive with becoming respect this their august father and guest in their royal palace in Berlin. All economy was wholly put aside. The king hired twenty-four pages and forty lackeys, who were all clad in velvet and fine cloth of a dark blue colour, with red breeches most richly embroidered with gold lace. Also, the splendid royal equipages which were still standing from the time of the king's father, the late magnificent Fredericus Primus, had to be brought out for a day and inspected; and, in truth, they were so rich and costly that I never afterwards saw their like, even in France. The royal gensd'armes had to be rigged out in new uniforms. A pretty considerable army was drawn together round Berlin to divert the King of England by their manœuvres. All the great nobles and their ladies were summoned to appear in handsome equipages. Some opera

written for, and others were set to work on decorations for the court festivities: all which was got ready before King George's arrival; so that the Prussian Court really looked very magnificent, and no longer like itself. And, indeed, it was very pleasant to see those two kings drive through Berlin in such a fine coach, and afterwards dine together along with the whole royal Prussian house. The King of Prussia conducted his father-in-law in like manner to the royal treasure-chamber. And there was, moreover, talk of a double marriage between the two kings, viz. between the Crown Prince of Prussia, his present Majesty, and the eldest princess of the Prince of Wales, as also between the eldest prince of this Prince of Wales and the Princess Royal of Prussia. But this august visit and all the grandeur lasted but a few days; for, as soon as the King of England was gone, the King of Prussia caused all the new liveries to be packed up in boxes, to be kept till they were again wanted, dismissed the new lackeys, and resumed his former economy. . . . . It was a strange and remarkable thing that the king had in his head at this time, viz. to people a piece of waste land in the province of Prussia. To this end he invited a number of the reformed from the Pfalz,1 who were suffering oppression from the Catholics in that country. They wil lingly accepted the offered conditions, and came to Brandenburg to be transported further. But, this not being sufficient, the king caused young country lads and girls of his own subjects to cast lots, that every tenth one should be sent to Prussia; and of these, too, there came, about the same time, between five and six hundred on their journey. When they arrived, the king

1 This emigration from the Palatinate, which Seidelin says he witnessed, must not be confounded with the later exodus from Salzburg, of which we have all read in Mr. Carlyle's book. Friedrich Wilhelm toiled for many years in getting inhabitants to that "piece of waste land." There were emigrations to Prussia from many parts of Germany, but I have never read elsewhere of one from the Palatinate, though the Polish Elector there

gave each of the girls permission to select her husband from among the young men ; and, as soon as any one was fixed on, he was married forthwith, the clergy having received orders to that effect, so that two hundred couples and upwards were married in the churches of Berlin in the course of two or three days. Some lads went to the altar pretty quietly, but others had wet eyes, and were as white as if they had been going to the scaffold; the women-folk looked all glad. But this kind of diversion had nearly gone too far; for there were two girls of Berlin who came to the king and offered to go to Prussia with the rest, on condition that they might have two young merchants whom they named; whereupon, to everybody's surprise, the king gave his consent, and forced these swains into this wedlock, probably with a promise of some special support. But at that all the respectable young men of Berlin got frightened, and I myself as much as any of them. At last, however, the whole party were sent forward to Prussia, and so the alarm was at an end.

"Before I left Berlin, I went out to Potsdam again, to see the big grenadiers on parade. Now just at the hour of parade the mail-coach happened to come in, and with it a travelling doctor from foreign parts, who, being as desirous as myself to see the big grenadiers, went straightway to the parade-ground. He was a decent-looking man, and wore a smart suit of blue clothes, with an elongated peruke, which, being in that place somewhat unusual, drew the king's eye, who at once came galloping down on the doctor, and asked him-'Who are you?' -'Please your Majesty,' said the doctor, 'I am a doctor medicina, and I live in such-and-such a place.'-'What are you doing here?' said the king.-'Please your Majesty,' quoth he, 'I have but this moment arrived with the mail, and desired to take advantage of the opportunity to do myself the pleasure of seeing your Majesty's famous grenadiers.''What!' cried the king, what business have you with my grenadiers? Look you after your books and your patients!'

and with that His Majesty called a gend'arme and said, 'Take this fellow, and lead him straightway out of the town!' 'Please your Majesty,' replied the doctor, I have done no harm, and mean to do none. I am departing in a few minutes with the mail, and beseech your Majesty but to grant me time to eat a morsel of food at the inn ere I go.' -'Hold your tongue!' cried the king, repeating his order; 'take him out of the town this instant, and bring me word when you have done it!'-Whereupon the soldier dragged the doctor away; but, when they had gone a bit, the doctor bribed the trooper to let him halt and get something to eat; after which he continued his journey with the coach. As I happened to be standing just behind him, I feared lest I should also fare like him; but the king rode away again; so I escaped,1 and had a good view of the parade, which I must confess was well worth the trouble of seeing, for the men were all like giants, their muskets were big in proportion, and the drill was splendid. After the parade I called on the biggest of the grenadiers, whose name was Jonas; was a Norwegian, and, therefore, a countryman of my own; he showed me his gloves, which were so large that I could put my hand into every finger, and his shoes, which were more than half an ell (Danish) long. Even the bigger boys in Potsdam were fond of the diversion of running, at their full height, between Jonas's legs; but once, when he got tired of the sport, and a middling-sized boy was running between his legs in this fashion, Jonas suddenly struck his knees together, and hit the boy on the temples so that he fell down dead but Jonas was not punished. Notwithstanding his great height, his legs were crooked; on which account the king inquired of various physicians and surgeons whether they could not be broken and fastened together again so as to look straight. But whether

he

1 Seidelin was in no danger, for the king's wrath was doubtless excited solely by the wig. There are many stories of his attacks on wigs when they were larger than he approved of.

this operation was ever tried, or, if tried, whether it succeeded, I cannot say for certain."

In 1725, Seidelin left Berlin and found his way to Strasburg, where he remained for a year. We can afford to pass over his reminiscences of this first visit to France. Let us follow him rather to Switzerland, where he went in the society of a fellow-countryman of like profession with himself, with whom indeed he shared the greater part of his future wanderings. They both found situations in Berne, though with dif ferent employers, and their tastes seem to have coincided. Alpine travel in the earlier half of last century was so rarely undertaken con amore-anything like a tourist's account of passes and glaciers in those days is so scarce-that the following narrative may be entertaining. An old man of seventy-nine, writing from memory more than half a century after his tour, may be forgiven for confounding the Grimsel and the Gries. I have let the blunder stand, all the more as the Danish editor has also done so. Distances, both here and in the other extracts, are given in English miles, unless the contrary is specified.

". . . . But by far the most remarkable thing either for Westen or myself was the following:-Having entered on our situations in Berne about Easter, we immediately formed the resolution that if it were possible we should visit and try to ascend the loftiest of the Swiss Alps which begin at a distance of about fifty miles from Berne, and what was more, that we should also try to continue the journey as far as Milan in Italy; but this our design we kept hidden lest we should be altogether prevented by our employers from undertaking the excursion. Yet in the month of August we carried our plan into execution, having in the first place obtained the necessary permission to go to see the Alps. We enlisted ten young fellows of our acquaintance to bear us company, each of whom had to supply himself with a great-coat, a canvass jacket, a pair of boots, a hunting-knife, some linen, a pair

on his hat, and a good stick in his hand Thus we all pursued our journey on foot till we came, one Sunday, to a place pretty high up in the mountains, where we found a church, a hall of justice, and an inn, at which we caused ourselves to be served with dinner,-and never in my life did I dine in greater style. . Each one of us had, on his word of honour, to make a declaration of how much money he had about him, all which being put in a common purse, we found the sum, as far as we could guess, sufficient for the whole journey, thither and back. We next procured a passport in the names of twelve persons, Swiss, and hired a guide, who understood Italian, at the charge of half-a-dollar, with victuals, per diem, until he should have brought us back to the same place. On the next day, which was Monday, we set out; but, having that day to ascend a part of the high Alps-the beginning of the great Gries (Grimsel) mountainsour travelling companions grew all at once tired of so laborious an expedition, and resolved to turn back, which greatly chagrined Westen and me, as we thus not only lost the pleasure and security which their society would have afforded us, but found our passport also, which was in the name of twelve, useless and suspicious; moreover, we had to pay all the expenses of our guide. None the less did we resolve to go on our way, with guide and passport as they were,a most hazardous resolution, owing to our ignorance of the Italian language. But, God being our guide, we reached Milan on the fourth day, and after sojourning there for three days, accomplished, in the same manner, our return to Berne, a journey altogether of more than three hundred miles, the whole of which we performed on foot, save that on one or two occasions we sailed for a few miles across some lake or canal. Nevertheless, all this was not done without many hardships and much that was disagreeable being mingled with our enjoyment. At the very outset, as soon as we had parted from our companions, it behoved us to ascend the lofty Gries