COSTUME FOR FEBRUARY.

The gilet, or waistcoat, is decidedly established in high favor, it had to sustain a struggle, it is truc, some little time since; nor can we wonder at this, for as first introduced it had a masculine effect foreign to general taste. Now, however, deprived of the objectionable pockets, and not so widely and glaringly displayed as heretofore, it has settled into a most elegant, becoming-semi-cquestrian, perhaps but still quite feminine garment. It is obviously particularly well-suited to the present season, not only on account of its warmth, but because, by a judicious arrangement of colors and materials, the sombre effects of winter costume may be relieved, and a pleasant variety produced with very few dresses. Indeed, so comfortable and convenient are the gilets, that they are not confined to morning dress, but in the country, especially, they are often worn at dinner.

A black velvet dress and jacket, with a pink-watered alk get embroidered in the same color, form a very rich costume, or if the dress be of colored velvet, the gilet should be of white, either embroidered the color of the dresa, or in some shade that contrasts with it. A colored kirt, with a gilet to correspond or judiciously contrast with it may be worn with a black velvet jacket. Or a glet of the same color as the dress embroidered with black bugles, and fastened with black studs, has a very rich effect; or if the dress be trimmed with velvet, the waistcoat should be of velvet. They are always more or less embroidered, either in the soutache, the richer silk embroidery, or bugles. A lavender gilet, embroidered in black, la very suitable for half-mourning. Studs are of course always requisite, and are of gold, pearl, jet, tur. koies, &c., according to the dress. Some ladies have had old fashioned, obsolete articles of jewelry reset for studs, with very good effect, emeralds, rubies, or amethysts being shown to great advantage on the white watered silk ge. The variety to be produced, however is nearly erviless, many ladies having two or three gilets provided for each dress. Those worn for dinner are generally rather open, to display a lace frill or chemisette. Morning shes are closed higher up, and are often of the white pipe or marcella, which corresponds so well with the thick muslin embroidery; but whichever style is adopted, the great point is to have the waistcoat well made: or that which in its perfection has an air of distinction about it, may be degraded to something approaching vulgarity. Bonnets are chiefly of velvet, being more generally intermixed with silk than satin. The tranparent edge is quite gone out; and though flowers continue to be used alde the brim, they are not at all worn outside. Feath

ers and lace are chiefly used for exterior trimming-and the caps are still very full and fanciful. The shapes are less open than they were last season.

One bonnet is of groseille velvet, the crown being composed of black lace and thick plaits of velvet arranged in a new and very elegant style. The brim is of drawn velvet covered with black lace; the cap of white blonde intermixed with laurel shaped leaves composed of stamped groseille velvet.

Another is of drawn black velvet brim with helmet shaped crown composed of pink satin covered with a fall of black lace; cap of white blonde with long ends of black velvet and pink roses. This shape may be made for half-mourning with lavender satin crown and lavender flowers in the cap.

There is a bonnet appropriate for bright weather made of pink terry velvet and pink silk, and with either white or black blonde lappets, and large wild roses inside.

Mantles are large and rich. One is of black velvet ornamented with a new trimming of gimp, bugles, and lace, and has a hood to correspond. It is lined with pink silk.

A less costly one is of stone-colored cloth trimmed with four rows of purple velvet-the hood has a rich tassel, and the whole lined with purple silk. The shape and mode of fastening this mantle are very elegant.

There is a dinner-jacket made of black cashmere, ornamented with rows of gold ribbon; it is lined with pink, the inside being trimmed with silver ribbon.

Coiffures present a great variety. Some are formed of the colored blondes with rich ribbons to correspond. One is of black velvet and roses; another of white blonde and pink and silver ribbon; black lace and black bugles are also much in request. But whatever the materials or precise style, the coiffures are invariably very full at the sides; and generally are pointed towards the forehead.

Cashmeres and other dresses of woolen material are worn for morning, being almost always embroidered down the front. These are the dresses with which the marcella waistcoat and broderie Anglaise harmonise so well. Velvets-especially for married ladies-are much worn for dinner and evening. Plain silks have always flounces, which are frequently woven to a pattern or embroidered.

Our plate represents a dinner dress, demi-toilette. It is composed of rich brocaded silk, with volants a disposition. The corsage is that of the time of Louis Quinze; the sleeve, with ruffle of three frills, is in the style of Mademoiselle De La Valliere. The coiffure is also a La Valliere.

One of the most interesting cities to the visitor abroad is Rouen, the native city of Fontenelle and of the two Corneilles; and what is not of less interest, the place of martyrdom to Joan of Arc, around whose name is clustered so much of thrilling romance, with whose being is associated so many tales of battle and of siege. Rich, too, in natural beauty, distinguished for its splendid old cathedral, and the superb views from the hills around, no wonder the visitor welcomes his approach to it, no wonder he looks back to its towers as they fade in the distance, with regret.

down on the broad and glassy bosom of the Seine. Even the ancient mar. ket women with their stalls for the sale of fruit and vegetables, help out the appearance of the picturesque, until we are compelled to believe that if they even, were left out, the scene would be meagre and incomplete, since it is much in the view of a city that there should be animation to all things appertaining to each picture presented.

Ascending this eminence now, after a delightful promenade, what a mag. nificent appearance the great cathedral makes as it looms up like Saul amongst his brethren, "a head and shoulders" above all! The good citizens may well be proud of so noble a specimen of architecture; not the less so, that within its walls reposes the dust of those who in their day were amongst the mightiest of all the earth. Think ofit! The fiery heart of Richard, of England, all pulseless now, lies peacefully within that structure, and as, after a lengthy walk, we stand before the shrine which encloses it, how in spirit we go back to the exploits of the Crusaders, to the fierce conflicts in which this poor remBut let us walk along the quays nant of mortality beat for the rescue of this beautiful summer morning, view- the Holy Sepulchre. Purged of its hot ing the clumsy boats which are moored blood, rid forever of its chafing amhere and there, or are moving up or bition, how quietly it lies at last, and

The Seine, also, makes a fine feature in the pictures presented, with its noble stone bridge and its magnificent quays; and although, as in most old towns in France, the streets in many cases are narrow and disagreeable, contrasted with those of more modern date, yet, after all, even these seem essential to the details of the piece, until we feel as if we would not change their character if we could.

what a spot, as the "dim religious spective, the view arrested by the arch. light" sheds a softening influence ed roof of the transept, which is halfaround, in which to review the career of way to the farthest end of the structure; this "Lord of the lion heart and eagle the gay flags of all nations fluttering eye!" above, the ribbons and shawls of the fair of all nations fluttering about below.

And the poor "Maid of Orleans," too. We saunter out to take a look at the uncouth statue designed to perpetuate her memory on the spot where she perished so barbarously; and the glory of her many triumphs seems but a poor guerdon for the dark fate which overtook her at last. We step reverently, as if it were possbile we might be treading upon her ashes so ruth lessly scattered here, and trying to recall the scene which closed the race of one so worthy of a better fate.

But we must bid adieu to Rouen to its sad stories of the past, to its lovely pictures of French life, to its quaint or magnificent architecture; but with the reflection-that few spots are worthier of a brief sojourn, few so rich in novelty to the stranger from over the great waters.

THE CRYSTAL PALACE.

Mankind will never cease to wonder

The principal entrance, it will be perceived, is that at the transept, a throng of people indicating the place, whilst the end nearest the spectator was comparatively little used for pur poses of ingress or egress.

Not far from the left hand corner of the building-as represented in the picture-stood the house containing the steam works for supplying the exhibit ors with motive power; that corner having been devoted to the various machines for spinning, weaving, press work, and so forth. Along this Western front, were arranged many huge specimens of coal, of marble, granite, great anchors, life boats, and other bulky articles which suffered no injury from exposure to the weather.

But let us approach the transept, and doing so what a marvel do we behold! Something, that an hundred years since could not have been created, the slight at that period not admitting of it. As comparative advance in manufactures the preternatural and gigantic produc we gaze upon it, it reminds us more of tion of an overwrought brain in the land of dreams, than of anything real; and

at the accounts given of the Crystal Palace, and the inestimable treasures stored in it-they will never cease to feel an interest in all that appertains to an exhibition, certainly the most remarkable in the history of the world. Provided with an excellent delineation yet it is composed of materials which of it as one of the attractions of the present number of our magazine, we propose to ask the attention of our readers to the details of a picture, which, especially to those who have not been fortunate enough hitherto to fall in with it, will, we trust, prove acceptable.*

Stand with us then, for a few moments, at the South-West corner of the building, as given in the sketch.

might outlast St. Peter's itself; the lat‍ ter, the labor of centuries gone by.

the phrase "fairy like," so slender apIt would be what we understand by pears its structure, but that it is so huge, that you conclude if any thing other than Oriental genii, a race of gi supernatural has had a hand it, none ants, could have constructed it-those

beings who could build a palace to the Look-childhood, at least. skies in a night-in the thoughts of

ing Eastward, we behold the Southern front of the edifice, a long line of per

carriages as they arrive in succession The police are on the alert. The A large portion of this description was hurare sent off to form in long lines near riedly written by us from London during the ex-by, and the way clear, we enter. The hibition; but carefully re-written, now; we trust first thing we notice near the entrance, it will be none the less interesting to the mass of is a large elm tree, standing gracefully our present readers, who probably have not seen it before. ED. S. W. M. and carelessly before us, as if no intruder

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-as in truth it is not; and looking up- scarcely inferior in appearance to the wards, we see the immense roof far "Mountain of Light," sparkles there, above it, reducing the tree at once to with opals, and rubies, and emeralds, the condition of only a goodly sized almost innumerable. Here, also, we green-house shrub. What an immense behold the plunder of British India! crowd. Thridding our way between coronets and bracelets, blazing with the groups, we behold on both sides of gold and precious stones, princely us magnificent statues, the contribu- robes and jewelled weapons are scattertions in most cases of the Queen and ed about with a profusion which defies the nobility, for the occasion; and computation and dazzles the vision. now, before us, in the centre, is a beau- Over this division, we read in golden tiful cut glass fountain nearly thirty letters upon a red ground, the word feet in height, in full play, casting its "INDIA;" and we think sadly of the spray of diamonds upwards in the sun- cost of all this display-of the plunder light which falls through the crystal the Sutlej, and the sack of Mooltan. roof above upon it. We are now in Opposite, we have the contributions the centre of the edifice, the vast arch of others of the Orientals, largely conover our heads, and on either side im- sisting of gorgeous horse trappings, mense vistas of floor and galleries, saddles and bridles in crimson and thronged with multitudes, yet not gold; and arms, a murderous collection crowded, so great the space, and the of creeses, match-locks, and scimetars, whole distance interspersed with stat- inlaid with precious stones, ivory, siluary, fountains, shrubbery and works ver, and gold. There, too, is superb of art. The stately palm is here, as if chain armor, not yet abandoned by the quite at home, whole conservatories, nations of the East, beautifully conare clustered here and there, the gush structed cannon, spears, arrows, and of falling waters and of music meets bows, every thing, in short, calculated the ear, and the air is laden and redo- to take life-scarcely a thing to preserve lent with the perfume of flowers and it. Here, also, in close proximity, we the odors of caskets from the hands of have the rude instruments of music the artistes of London and Paris.

used in sounding the charge, gongs, war drums, and trumpets, pointing to battle as the pastime of princes, only rivalled, perhaps, by the display of pis. tols, cutlasses, and guns, and bugles, and trumpets, exhibited in the shop windows of the Strand, as we passed along on our way hither.

Suppose we approach yon group, on tiptoe around a gilded grating, beneath which we catch a glimpse of a glass case. We do so, and the world renowned "Koh-i-noor" with its blaze of light greets our vision, the prize of battle for Oriental Princes, the plunder which might ransom a kingdom! Two We pass onward to look at the bemillions of pounds sterling, or ten mil- nevolent, intellectual countenances of lions of dollars for what shines there; those lights of British jurisprudence, gold which might make glad the hearts Lords Eldon and Stowell, seated toof thousands, is the price of that bauble, gether on the Bench, a massive group which after all, might scarcely serve of marble weighing twenty tons! Back long asthe plaything of a child! We turn to the transept again, and we see beauaway, puzzled at the poverty of soul tiful models in plaster, of the Queen which makes such things grasped at as and her consort, on horseback, designed food for happiness, and another group to be cast in bronze-a collossal statue attracts our attentiou. Ha! here again of the Duke of Wellington, and furis the spoil of farther India, the con- ther on, Virginius and his daughter, the tribution to the exhibition of the East latter group a very spirited affair, the India company. Another regal display father represented as having just made of jewels is before us; another dia: the fearful sacrifice, the body of the mond, marvellous for its size, amongst daughter drooping upon one arm, hundreds of others, glitters beneath a brandishes the fatal knife with the glass case; and the "Sea of Light," other.